Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 costs? they vary alot


Recommended Posts

How much for a 92 or above r32 gts or gtst under 100 000km's in good condition??

Ive seen prices vary from 8k for a 120 000 k 92 gts in NZ classifieds, then ive seen almost identical cars selling for 20grand

After how many kms is the engine likely to screw up??? I dont know anything about engiens and i dont want to buy a skyline which needs replacing in 6 months, is there a way to check if its in good condition?? If the previous owners thrashed it i dobut hes gonna tell me

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As there are so many with such a diverse range of mods then its hard to give a definite answer. Myself i would be looking at a car that has already had an Australian owner, and around 15k.

They come cheaper and dearer, and only because someone is asking a certain price dosent mean its condition is reflected in the pricing.

Also i wouldnt be too worried when looking at kms, go on the condition of the car, using kms as an indicator. Noone wants my 92 R32 because it has 159,000kms, but thats fine, i know its a better car then many apparent 80,000km cars. They handle kms well, just as they handle hard driving well a long as the servicing has been looked after.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I recently bought a R32 GTSt in Melbourne and found good cars few and far between. Saw a few good ones, but many more dodgy cars.

Eg. cars with no compliance plates but somehow registered, dealers not wanting me to get the car tested then when they finally agreed found the car had been a major accident -10L dint in fuel tank, missing aircon compressor and fan, changed instrument panel.

Expect to spend at least a month looking then about $14-17k with roadworthy. Probably not worth buying a car without roadworthy if ur not really into engines, it could cost a lot more than uthink to get it on the road.

Finally, depending on ur age, make sure u have at least $2k extra for insurance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im only experienced with local prices. I paid 16k for my car by personally importing it myself. Back then you couldnt get a 32 under 21 thousand in Perth and they were rare as rocking horse shit.

Now you can personally import a 15 year old car for 10k-ish, but to be honest ive only seen one or two in decent nick. The rest have been really rough.

Hard to say what theyre worth, some owners might be looking at the "15 year" cars and dropping the value based on that. Others might not even know you can pick one up so cheap so they keep their price high.

Very difficult to judge.

As for insurance, not sure what its like in NZ with its copious amounts of imports, but I pay 700 bucks a year.

Red17

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Always buy a car with a RWC, even if it's not roadworthy you can try screwing the mechanic that signed it buy getting them to repair it to save their testing license. I've been stung before by bargaining cars down without RWC, yet having to spend $2k getting a RWC for it myself. It's probably even better to get a RACV check, and better yet, get a mechanic to check the mechanical condition outside roadworthyness, (compression etc) to get a better idea of the engine itself.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah not sure. I sourced another relay no problem, its definitely a relay according to Nissan parts, they used those specific relays on a bunch if cars around that time, but my two options are, find a behind dash wiring loom which is proving difficult, or get the current loom fixed up by the shop when they put my rebuilt engine back in, they are confident in their auto electrical abilities. Thing is my current loom has anti-theft stuff and GPS immobilisers wired into it so easiest option may be to just fix the current one to save ripping apart the immobiliser. 
    • Took it apart to get to the bearing found out i was wrong the bearing was pressed on to the diff side and the part i removed only had the bearing side, checked the bearing all looked fine took the shaft end to a shop and they recon it was movement from back and forth that made the marks and not rumbling about, so i just changed the seal and put it all back again.
    • Oh dear. That's um. There's like. Um. a lot of bare wires there. Take the whole thing out. Something is very very shorted somewhere. IT IS NOT CAUSED BY THAT "RELAY" (assuming it is a relay).
    • Hey all. Had a bit of a scare today with my R34 GTT when i flicked on the tail/parker lights, and  some wiring started going up in smoke under the dash. The fuse didnt blow, it just melted the casing of the fuse so must have been a crap fuse? Previous owner did alot of wiring, some of which is quite sub par and the fuse that melted was definitely newer than the other ones that were in the fuse box, but didnt seem that he touched the wires that mainly got melted. Anyway may need a small section of a new loom, is there lots of similarities between the turbo and non turbo looms especially for under the dash stuff? The wired that got friend go into a 6 pin relay under the dash. The non turbo ones are less than half the price here from a wrecker and all i would need it the section that got fried and any other wires that are affected.  Thanks in advance
×
×
  • Create New...