Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The ATTESA system used in the GTR and Stageas is mostly all the same - but with tweaks here and there to suit the vehicle and its intended use. I think mechanically it is more or less the same and the way it works is also more or less the same, but the AWD computer will be set up differently to suit the car.

And yes it is true the system will read many different inputs (100x per second) - throttle position, ABS sensors (to determine lost traction), and longitudinal and latitudinal g-force sensors, to determine the weight-shift of the car, sideways and front-back g-forces etc and basically the rule is: If ANY wheelspin (or POTENTIAL for wheelspin) is detected at any wheel, the system will direct torque away from that wheel. The torque split is completely variable - from up to ~95% rear to about 50% front 50% rear - or it can be anywhere in between - as the computer sees necessary.

Its one of the most advanced AWD systems in the world, and works extremely well. It is however not designed for heavy offroad use or situations where you are in AWD constantly (ie. all day). The 4x4 Nissans do still use a form of ATTESA but they also feature the usual 4WD diffs etc to support 4WD mode. On stageas and GTR's the system relies on clutch packs which will wear out if used all the time. Its more like a backup system to ensure maximum traction on the road - and it is more than capable of achieving this.

My favourite thing about ATTESA is that its RWD most of the time, so you get the fuel economy/drivetrain losses of a RWD car (in theory) when just cruising around, but the safety and traction of AWD when you need it. In my opinion its much better than full time AWD systems like mitsubishi and subaru, however those systems have their advantages as well (just that those advantages usually manifest themselves on a rally circuit, not on the road).

Actually this is a complete can of worms with some manufacturers claiming full time AWD when they don't have it...

Subaru actually have 4 different AWD systems, depending on engine and transmission options. I won't go into too much detail, but only manual Subarus actually have full time AWD. All the automatics have a clutch pack replacing the centre active diff, or viscus coupling, of the manual versions. That makes them part time AWD, same as our Nissans.

But hey, when have marketing guys ever worried about the truth...

The ATTESA system used in the GTR and Stageas is mostly all the same - but with tweaks here and there to suit the vehicle and its intended use. I think mechanically it is more or less the same and the way it works is also more or less the same, but the AWD computer will be set up differently to suit the car.

And yes it is true the system will read many different inputs (100x per second) - throttle position, ABS sensors (to determine lost traction), and longitudinal and latitudinal g-force sensors, to determine the weight-shift of the car, sideways and front-back g-forces etc and basically the rule is: If ANY wheelspin (or POTENTIAL for wheelspin) is detected at any wheel, the system will direct torque away from that wheel. The torque split is completely variable - from up to ~95% rear to about 50% front 50% rear - or it can be anywhere in between - as the computer sees necessary.

Its one of the most advanced AWD systems in the world, and works extremely well. It is however not designed for heavy offroad use or situations where you are in AWD constantly (ie. all day). The 4x4 Nissans do still use a form of ATTESA but they also feature the usual 4WD diffs etc to support 4WD mode. On stageas and GTR's the system relies on clutch packs which will wear out if used all the time. Its more like a backup system to ensure maximum traction on the road - and it is more than capable of achieving this.

My favourite thing about ATTESA is that its RWD most of the time, so you get the fuel economy/drivetrain losses of a RWD car (in theory) when just cruising around, but the safety and traction of AWD when you need it. In my opinion its much better than full time AWD systems like mitsubishi and subaru, however those systems have their advantages as well (just that those advantages usually manifest themselves on a rally circuit, not on the road).

I hate that about carsales and most online car websites. when i was looking for a Legnum or stagea or anything really

most dickheads say the car is a manual when its a damn auto.. really annoying when your trying to find just a manual car..

The ATTESA system used in the GTR and Stageas is mostly all the same - but with tweaks here and there to suit the vehicle and its intended use. I think mechanically it is more or less the same and the way it works is also more or less the same, but the AWD computer will be set up differently to suit the car.

And yes it is true the system will read many different inputs (100x per second) - throttle position, ABS sensors (to determine lost traction), and longitudinal and latitudinal g-force sensors, to determine the weight-shift of the car, sideways and front-back g-forces etc and basically the rule is: If ANY wheelspin (or POTENTIAL for wheelspin) is detected at any wheel, the system will direct torque away from that wheel. The torque split is completely variable - from up to ~95% rear to about 50% front 50% rear - or it can be anywhere in between - as the computer sees necessary.

Its one of the most advanced AWD systems in the world, and works extremely well. It is however not designed for heavy offroad use or situations where you are in AWD constantly (ie. all day). The 4x4 Nissans do still use a form of ATTESA but they also feature the usual 4WD diffs etc to support 4WD mode. On stageas and GTR's the system relies on clutch packs which will wear out if used all the time. Its more like a backup system to ensure maximum traction on the road - and it is more than capable of achieving this.

My favourite thing about ATTESA is that its RWD most of the time, so you get the fuel economy/drivetrain losses of a RWD car (in theory) when just cruising around, but the safety and traction of AWD when you need it. In my opinion its much better than full time AWD systems like mitsubishi and subaru, however those systems have their advantages as well (just that those advantages usually manifest themselves on a rally circuit, not on the road).

R32GTR N1's don't have ABS (or ABS sensors), but they still have ATTESA. Personally I have never seen any 4WD response from wheelspin, it's all about throttle position, plus longitudinal and lateral G forces. R32's will go zero front torque split, R33/34's always have some drive to the front. As long as you keep the oil temperature under control, the ATTESA will handle a full day in 4WD. The clutch pack is wet, so not prone to the wear that a dry clutch gets. There is an argument that says a 50/50 torque split will actually wear the clutch pack less than 5/95. The less slip there is the lower the friction wear and 50/50 has zero slip so zero wear. The only problem with 50/50 is the front diff is so much smaller than the rear one and it simply won't take the load. Yes, I have broken the front diff in the Stagea.

Personally I think a RWD biased 4WD would make a much better rally car than a FWD biased 4WD, for the very same reasons it makes an ATTESA equipped circuit race car the best of the 4WD systems.

Cheers

Gary

AWD harder to get off the line...? What are you smoking mate? Clearly would be your tyres if ur rwd :) the awd is super easy to launch HARD

I think what he might mean is that the optimal AWD launch has a small amount of wheelspin, which can be difficult to achieve. I know with my m35, a zero wheelspin standing start (stalled against the torque converter) is not nearly as fast as one with even a small amount of wheelspin (also stalled against the converter)

Thanks to Andy and Jetwreck for the correct launch procedure! :thumbsup:

Actually this is a complete can of worms with some manufacturers claiming full time AWD when they don't have it...

Subaru actually have 4 different AWD systems, depending on engine and transmission options. I won't go into too much detail, but only manual Subarus actually have full time AWD. All the automatics have a clutch pack replacing the centre active diff, or viscus coupling, of the manual versions. That makes them part time AWD, same as our Nissans.

But hey, when have marketing guys ever worried about the truth...

hmm didn't know that - interesting. Either way the subaru system still would not be computer controlled to the degree our nissans are, allowing the torque split to vary anywhere from ~95% rear to 50-50 depending on circumstances. As I understand it (and I could be wrong), the wrx's and evo's have only a couple of preset torque split settings, that are mostly handled mechanically.

As for the AWD vs RWD thing, cars that are RWD only are a tad lighter - which in my opinion is the ONLY benefit to RWD. There are other benefits, slightly quicker, lower fuel consumption - but these are due to the weight difference also.

If you were to compare a RWD and AWD stagea with the same weight (ie. remove the front tailshaft on the AWD), the AWD is quicker down the 1/4 mile. Something to do with the AWD launch compared to RWD. Also the more power the car has, the more this swings even more in favour of AWD...

However the above was only done by someone on here with a s1 or s2. Not sure if the same holds true for the M35.

I agree getting an M35 off the line quickly is no easy task. Not sure if its just gearing or if the torque converter bogs down or what...

yes the correct one demonstrated with my car several times lol poor car!

Haha, I thought I was doing well when I stalled mine up and let fly at about 2500rpm, then the guys told me to hold out until the rear wheels start to turn... Biiiig difference!

Note*, All undertaken on closed private roads, street drag racing is naughty... DON'T DO IT!

yeah i didnt do it on the street either later that night. but it so happens i was 'parked' next to a taxi that was creeping up on me. i used this trick and shot out of the smoke.

im guessing its VERY bad for the atessa system as its slipping the clutches a lot.........

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...