Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Harvey have it at $77 for preorder in their catalogue, but that catalogue ends today i think (going by the ad on tv). so who knows what the prices will actually be on thursday.

On another note, a heap of shops in france are already selling it.

what so all those links within ^^^^^^^ link can be downloaded and transfered to ur ps3 then played????????

also 20GB, is that the size for this download or is that how much space you will need on ur ps3 when the game installs????

For the PS3 trophy whores

http://www.ps3trophies.org/game/gran-turismo-5/trophies/

Also gives a look at whats going to be in the game.

It only uses 6.4gb for the install.

Edited by Dani Boi

I heard Harvey norman had it for presale for $77 on the radio. So I went there and saw signs saying Pre Order for $88. I told the guy I just heard $77 on the radio and he said ok, then he spent about 10 minutes trying to find it in the computer.

I was looking at his screen as he typed GT5 into search. GT5 Prologue came up and he said that's $44, I told him wrong game and he kept searching. Next he found GTA4 and I told him wrong game again. Eventually he found GT5 and clicked on the GT5 CE edition and asked for $138. Then I told him I just want the normal version (which was sitting right above the CE edition on his screen, He retyped GT5 into the comptuer and started searching through the massive list again. I saw before that they had 166 copies in stock and just told him dont worry i'll just buy it on the day.

Also checked dick smiths Which was $89 to preorder, the guy said just order it online for $79 + free delivery but I looked up there online service and found a forum thread full of complaints.

Cant wait for the release though :)

go buy it from JB hifi, the guy on the phone said that the price atm doesnt mean much, and they'll change it on thursday to make it as cheap as possible. he said ballpark price was around $110 but it will go down i guess to beat harveynormal and dicksmith etc.

I heard Harvey norman had it for presale for $77 on the radio. So I went there and saw signs saying Pre Order for $88. I told the guy I just heard $77 on the radio and he said ok, then he spent about 10 minutes trying to find it in the computer.

I was looking at his screen as he typed GT5 into search. GT5 Prologue came up and he said that's $44, I told him wrong game and he kept searching. Next he found GTA4 and I told him wrong game again. Eventually he found GT5 and clicked on the GT5 CE edition and asked for $138. Then I told him I just want the normal version (which was sitting right above the CE edition on his screen, He retyped GT5 into the comptuer and started searching through the massive list again. I saw before that they had 166 copies in stock and just told him dont worry i'll just buy it on the day.

Also checked dick smiths Which was $89 to preorder, the guy said just order it online for $79 + free delivery but I looked up there online service and found a forum thread full of complaints.

Cant wait for the release though :)

Thanks for the info much appreciated :) . I'll just have to wait for the day and see who has it the cheapest.

Must... resist... temptation to hold up an EB Games store!

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=163...107605795944446

:D

was at eb today and they had all the games in the glass cabinet behind the register ready to go and the price was $89 preorder, so i decided to wait till thursday and go the cheapest place :D

If the cars in this game still sound like electronic vacuume cleaners & handle like they have open wheel diffs I will make sure I bag every single review site I can access!

Reallllyyyy hoping they have come close to the sound Forza has mastered!

watch a few videos. you will see the sound is much better than previous games.

i think part of the issue with previous versions of the game (and people will still say the same about this game to an extent) is that they think the sound should be what they hear when the car goes past, however in the games they have always made it sound a bit more like the perspective from which you are driving. the sound of a car behind the car is different to that in the car or at the front of the car, and people driving from the front bar view should hear more engine noise and not as much exhaust note, while people driving from the rear view should hear more exhaust note and less engine noise. inside the car should hear a mix of exhaust noise, gearbox noise (in race cars), and engine noise.

also saying that a game is shit purely because of the audio is pretty sad and pathetic. how about you rate it on how it plays, rather than dismiss what is more than likely going to be the best handling racing game around, and probably the most visually advanced game. if the sound being slightly off is enough to outweigh all of that then i'm sorry, you are a super nerd.

more than likely going to be the best handling racing game around

Whoa - big call. Hope you're right.

I'm a sound nerd too. Yes, it's very important to me. Some of the community add on sound projects for other driving sims over the years have been fantastic. The right sounds can make a huge difference to the driving experience. Obviously not the most important thing in a game, but a big part of the enjoyment.

sound means very little to me as when i race i don't just go for a sunday drive and think to myself "oh that doesn't quite sound right", i mostly ignore the sound and put all my concentration into braking at the last second, hitting the apex and accelerating as early as possible. for me as long as the graphics are decent and it handles very well, then that is all i car about. i care about the racing and not all the wank factor stuff that goes with it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
×
×
  • Create New...