M35 Still Stalling - Not Idling Properly

[QWK32]

Bugger

"ConSultan is a Mac OS X program designed to communicate with the Consult port of your pre-1999 Nissan vehicle"

Mine is a 2001 model, oh well

the only other thing you could try if you were keen on getting something running on you mac is use Parallels or VMware Fusion and run the windows consult software from your mac, its the easiest way apart from a complete native install of windows from bootcamp.

[andy65b]

For the M35 guys who have not seen my posts in the V35 section.

I have found yesterday that the PCV on my car may be faulty.

It is not meant to be be leaking any air back into the manifold at idle but mine is.

It seems that my earlier stalling problem and now my high idle may all be related to this faulty part. I have ordered the new part and will also remove the current one and try to clean it.

I have attached a photo of the location along with an the technical information for the G35.

Cheers

Andy

[gerry whtie]

Hi,

My M35 has been having idle problems for about the last 3-4 months.

I've narrowed it down to a fairly specific case - and I can verify this almost every time now.

It generally idles at 500rpm - has done since I got the car (oct 2008). Occasionally it will idle at 650rpm as it should, but I find this is mostly when its cold. Once it warms up, the idle revs drop to 500rpm.

It actually idles very smooth at 500rpm most of the time, so I haven't worried too much about it.

However, if I rev it just a tiny bit then take my foot off the accelerator again straight away, it will splutter before coming back up to 500rpm. Sometimes it doesn't recover and just stalls at this point.

If I'm rolling along slowly and release the accelerator, and then turn the steering wheel, the extra load from the steering is usually enough to stall it. However it is not an issue with steering, because it will still splutter even when its stopped and/or when the steering is at the centre (ie. straight ahead).

Some other things about it:

* ONLY happens when the engine is warm. Seems more likely when the weather is hot too.

* Only happens when idling or revving below say 600rpm. When travelling anywhere over say 10-20km/h or with any pressure on the accelerator - it wont stall.

To my way of thinking it must be airflow related - ie. the engine being starved of air at the moment the throttle closes - (or almost closes?).

I've performed the Accelerator position learning, throttle closed position learning, and idle air volume learning and all seem ok except for the idle air volume one. Either it stalls straight away, or otherwise it pretends nothing is wrong but still insists on idling at 500rpm. Doesn't seem to be "learning" anything. very stubborn!!

No ecu fault codes come up when I check this either - its always 0000. Any ideas? Anything I can check?

[gerry whtie]

Had same issuses with my 97 rs4, after taking car to Gaven Woods on Gold Coast turned out to be dry soldered joints in air flow meter, problem sorted. Car now sold and awaiting m35 from Japan.

[zei20l]

another C34 owner coming to the 'dark' side

pics??

[ironpaw]

Idle Air Volume Learning

Description:

Idle Air Volume Learning is an operation to learn the idle air volume that keeps each engine within the specific range. It must be performed each time electric throttle control actuator or ECM is replaced, or if idle speed or ignition timing is out of specification.

Preparation:

Before performing Idle Air Volume Learning, make sure that all of the following conditions are satisfied. Learning will be cancelled if any of the following conditions are missed for even a moment.

- Battery voltage: More than 12.9V (At idle)

- Engine coolant temperature: 70 - 100 Degrees C (158 – 212 Degrees F)

- PNP switch: ON (Park/Neutral Position Safety Switch - AT only, MT fully depress clutch)

- Electric load switch: OFF (Air conditioner, rear window defogger, headlamps. Note: on vehicles equipped with daytime light systems, if the parking brake is applied before the engine is started, the headlamps will not be illuminated.)

- Steering wheel: Neutral (Straight-ahead position)

- Vehicle speed: Stopped

- Transmission: Warmed-up (For A/T models, drive vehicle for 10 minutes.)

Operation Procedure:

1. Perform "Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning"

2. Perform "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning"

3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature. - (EDIT: THIS IS IMPORTANT - i've tried it when the car is cold and it will likely adjust the idle incorrectly so that when the car warms up it will idle too low).

4. Check that all items listed under the topic PREPARATION (previously mentioned) are in good order.

5. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.

6. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ON and wait 3 seconds.

7. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds:

7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal.

7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.

8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL stops blinking and turned ON.

9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL turned ON.

10. Start engine and let it idle.

11. Wait 20 seconds.

12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications:

Idle speed A/T: 650rpm, + or - 50 rpm (in P or N position)

Idle speed M/T: 650rpm, + or - 50 rpm (in N position)

Ignition timing A/T: 15 Degrees BTDC, + or – 5 Degrees BTDC (in P or N position)

Ignition timing M/T: 15 Degrees BTDC, + or – 5 Degrees BTDC (in N position)

13. If idle speed and ignition timing are not within the specification, Idle Air Volume Learning will not be carried out successfully. If idle speed and ignition timing are within the specification and Idle Air Volume Learning cannot be performed successfully, find the cause of the incident by referring to the following Diagnostic Procedure:

1. Check that throttle valve is fully closed.

2. Check PCV valve operation.

3. Check that downstream of throttle valve is free from air leakage.

4. When the above three items check out OK, engine component parts and their installation condition are questionable.

5. If any of the following conditions occur after the engine has started, eliminate the cause of the incident and perform Idle Air Volume Learning all over again:

- Engine stalls.

- Erroneous idle.

Guys - I think I have the same issue. Scotty fitted the suction pipe and resetted the ECU. Drove him fine, and as I came around the corner from my home I gave it a squirt, and as I slowe down to park the engine stalled. Lucky I was right outside my home and I was able to part to the side of the road and not stuck on some intersection!

Scott showed me the procedures here and I tried them - but I can't completed it because at step 10, my engine stalls as soon as I start it. I can keep it running if I rev if but if I don't it'll just stall...

Any pointers? Would love to sort this out without having ti drag Scotty all the way out tomorrow!

[zei20l]

air leak somewhere??

[pixel8r]

In my case it was the throttle getting stuck closed. Because the M35 is drive-by-wire, the ecu keeps the throttle open just enough at idle to regulate the right amount of air coming in...but in my case it was a bit sticky around the inside of the throttle body and it would get stuck in the closed position just long enough for it to stall.

Might be worth checking that your throttle body is clean - you need to check the engine side (ie. not the intake side) - it may look clean when you take the rubber hose off but if you wiggle it you'll see black all the way around the outside etc...

After this is done, then you may need to do the idle-air-learning thingy that was posted here. you'll know if you need to do it because your car will be idling higher... It should sit dead on 650rpm at idle if its running right...that's what mine did after I fixed this. It made such a huge difference and I was glad that I found it before shelling out hundreds to a mechanic...

[scotty nm35]

I will bring some tools around tomorrow night after work buddy, rip the throttle body off and clean it, check the cooler pipes for leaks etc. Pity it didnt do it while you were at my place. lol.

[StealthX]

This is the first i've seen of this thread, and I CBF reading through the entire 4 pages....

I had a similar problem with my x-trail. It happened as soon as I messed with the engine management.

Have you modified your car at all OP?

[ironpaw]

I will bring some tools around tomorrow night after work buddy, rip the throttle body off and clean it, check the cooler pipes for leaks etc. Pity it didnt do it while you were at my place. lol.

LOL tell me about it...damn cars!!

[ironpaw]

This is the first i've seen of this thread, and I CBF reading through the entire 4 pages....

I had a similar problem with my x-trail. It happened as soon as I messed with the engine management.

Have you modified your car at all OP?

Just bolt on mods.

Dump pipe/exhaust

Intercooler

And today as per my post, the suction pipe.

[ironpaw]

OK I seemed to be getting this fault code:

10 x slow blinks, the 10 x fast, 10 x fast and 10 x fast...

Any idea?

[Sunkist]

blank im pretty sure, do you have an engine light up?

I'de say do a quick check on all the silicone joiners, including the ones to you FMIC.

mine were constantly blowing off the HDI Clamps are shit as the band is too broad.

[ironpaw]

hmm ok will do when I get home...or rather Scott will LOL

[scotty nm35]

Dirty throttle plate was the culprit, sticky black gunk was blocking the gap. A little WD40 on a rag and now there is a great 650 rpm warble from the exhaust.

[ironpaw]

Thanks heaps mate!! The car is much more responsive with the suction pipe!

[iamhe77]

OK I seemed to be getting this fault code:

10 x slow blinks, the 10 x fast, 10 x fast and 10 x fast...

Any idea?

Glad you got it sorted, but for your reference 10 blinks = "0"

So there was no fault code displayed (0000)

[Dunc]

Dirty throttle plate was the culprit, sticky black gunk was blocking the gap. A little WD40 on a rag and now there is a great 650 rpm warble from the exhaust.

Did you perform the reset procedure after cleaning it? My idle is a bit high, but it could be my ECU forcing that

[pixel8r]

Dirty throttle plate was the culprit, sticky black gunk was blocking the gap. A little WD40 on a rag and now there is a great 650 rpm warble from the exhaust.

heh, exactly the same problem I had then. Glad its all sorted.