Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 443
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i think hes running yellow jackets like me, i got 189.6 rwkw on 10psi (might have spiked higher, no readout on dyno chart). last dyno run i had 173 on 13psi without coilpacks or dump pipe.

what plug gaps you running vu?

my dyno chart is once again flat mid way... needs a good tune, think there's a few kw in there somewhere too, have a feeling it might crack 200 on 12psi.

Dont see why you can't Marko....well i am making 214 on 12 so you should be close if not over the 200 mark

Yeah I'm running Yellow Jackets @ 0.8mm gap, going to leave them at 1.1 next service I reckon.

0.8 is what you should be running and the 1.1 is the stock gapping unless your running stock boost then you will need to run the 0.8 gapping....heard of cars not running right with 1.1 gapping and 11psi

Did this also occur at the GWW also?

All Pulsar dyno days that i have been to have been held at GWW and as far as my dyno sheets concerned it had, power, boost and afr readings

I'd also like to add that GWW dyno'd 39 cars in one day for the Pulsar day and checked the AFM's and boost pressure for every single car.

http://www.dynoday.info/results2009.html GWW get my vote for the next dyno day :D

+1

Brett was stuffed after that day....loading up 39 cars, strapping each and everyone.....setting the dyno for RWD and then AWD was a bit of a pain but what an effort.....

It was a awesome day regardless....concerns/valid points are no doubt will be looked at for the next DD event

wicked troy cheers for those man.....car looks decent in those shots

thanks,, not sure who it was who asked me to take Vu's photo but hear ya go.. he comes in second place to Pete in snags...lol

maybe a new contest for loxton, who can eat the most snags before chucking..lol

During our committee meetings, several dyno workshops were considered. We were concerned with some aspects, such as the steep access to BW and the main road location of GWW as some examples. SHT seemed the suitable option. This was thoroughly discussed at our Committee meetings, and John was approached. Its got nothing to do with the fact that Cara takes her car to SHT. One aim of SAU:SA also is to help out small businesses where we can. We held one of our fundraiser BBQs at Ministry of Bass (helping the smaller business) ... yet no one complained about why didn't we have it at Tonkins etc. You can't keep everyone happy all the time, so a selection was made for what we considered was the best for the majority. SHT's workshop has easy access for any lowered car, and no neighbours to complain about noise, and should it have been raining there was heaps of undercover space. The premises was very accommodating ... pity about the annoying wind. We were thinking of you as entrants and spectators when we selected SHT. As mentioned before, your concerns will be taken on board. They are all valid points. This will set the benchmark for the next event we run. We will only get bigger and better

Very well said

-D

A small update:

As announced at the Dyno Day on Saturday 15th Aug, Skylines Australia - South Australian Chapter is officially CAMS Affiliated for those hanging out for it.

The Certificate of CAMS Affiliation was received in the mail yesterday, which I have in my grubby hands now :P

I am getting the new membership cards prepared this week for all members (current and new) tonight. Unfortunately, I am at TAFE nights on Wed/Thu nights and leaving Friday for Ballarat for 4 days. I'll see if another committee/club member can kindly meet/hand out the new cards in my absence.

Spread the word. I'm aware some potential members were holding out, waiting for this affiliation.

:banana:

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @dbm7 and @GTSBoy thank you both very much! will give that a shot!
    • Sounds good. Provided the panel is flat/level I'd be happy to start the painting process.  While you are learning, for sure you could do this. Its only paint, you can always sand it all back and start again. Its only your time and money on materials, but while you're learning, really its time and money spent on your education.  Once you know how to do this bodywork and painting, you won't want to waste your time and money on frivolous activities lol. 
    • Yep I will use a guide coat after putting filler, I will do it on the whole panel as I'm a beginner so chances I've made quite a few errors. In that photo, I think that was a low spot, I just for example said to pretend it's flat but I will put filler + guide coat after to assess where I'm at. Yep with that picture, the panel is wet as it rained when I took the photo. But all those scratches are completely smooth, I went over it with 240 grit and can't feel it, even with my nail digging into it. I was legit thinking to buy a 2k can and spray primer to see how it turns out but then thought to myself it's going to be a mess doing it haha. Good mention there. Thanks for all that info I think I know what to do next.
    • Prior to laying down the primer, you need to make sure the surface is completely level. For example, based on this picture, I strongly suspect that the areas marked in blue are higher then the area marked in green.  If you spray primer over this entire area, then paint and clear it, the finished result will 100% show the low area. It will stick out like dogs balls. Unfortunately the paint won't magically level out the low areas as you lay it down.  Without seeing it in person, I expect that the green area will need to be filled, then use a guide coat and check that the entire repair area is level with a large sanding block.  With this picture, are you saying that even though you can see the scratches, the panel is in fact completely smooth and flat? If this is the case sure you could prep and paint it as it is.     The picture with the paint you described as blistering, it's hard for me to comment on from the photo alone. It looks like the panel is wet? Dunno, looks strange. Does the panel feel as smooth as glass when you run your hand over it? **** Going back to your question again, generally you would only sand the primer if you made a mistake while laying down the primer.  If the panel is prepped properly and you lay the primer down properly, you should not need to sand the primer.  This wouldn't work - Don't prep the panel. Spray primer and see how it turns out. Sand the areas where the issues appear. Spray more primer and see how it turns out. Sand the areas....... Yeah you'd go round and round in circles getting no where. 
    • That's sick, thanks for that, mine has much the same mods on a 400R. I just don't have the heat exchanger yet.   Might be worth a trip down the M1 to Syndey for a tune.
×
×
  • Create New...