Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys, is it absolutely vital to have air cleaners in boost lines? i installed an EBC yesterday and i tried everywhere and no one even knew what the air cleaners are, so therefore i didnt put any, anywhere in the lines, the manual for the EBC said i needed one on all 3 lines.

is this absolutely nessisary? if so, does anyone know where to get the air cleaner adapters?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/275813-air-cleaners-in-boost-lines/
Share on other sites

i've never heard of air cleaners in vacuum lines......

i would be worried if you needed them, because dirt in vaccum lines = dirt in motor which = damage. it also means main air filter isn't doing what it's supposed to

you are sure you aren't confused with the air filters for breather hoses?

hks-vfilt.gif

http://www.optionsauto.com/prodinfo.asp?nu...=HKS-4599-RA016

When i installed my Apexi boost gauge it said to install the filter in the line before the sender, but it didnt come with one. I think its a USA thing.

Edited by gotRICE?

If you think about it, you generally take a boost reading post turbo correct? Or from the manifold, so in theory there could be a bit of oil vapors from blowby/turbo seals or whatever floating around. Potentially clogging senders? But agree'd, worst case scenario.

I always thought it was to catch any moisture/ vapour in the lines to avoid damaging any of the electrical/mechanical parts inside the boost controller. When you compare this to an Air compressor, Painters usually have a moisture catch in the lines so they dont get any water sprayed out with the paint. as Air compressors usually catch a lot of moisture. Thats how i look at it.

yes they are there to protect the solenoid, the map sensor or any gauge sensor. they are a good idea. I wouldn't say they are essential but if you can get some and fit them then by all means do it. they ensure only clean air gets to your device. just watch they don't get blocked or split/leak. it does happen.

After installing my HKS evc that has the filters, i woudl say they are definitely nessasary as over a period of 7months they have accumulated a small amount of oil which can possibly throw off accurate boost readings inhibiting proper/optimal boost control.

I would really like to find out where they are sold and replace them every year or so.

After installing my HKS evc that has the filters, i woudl say they are definitely nessasary as over a period of 7months they have accumulated a small amount of oil which can possibly throw off accurate boost readings inhibiting proper/optimal boost control.

I would really like to find out where they are sold and replace them every year or so.

ditto +1

Hi!

I've been looking for 4mm vacuum/boost line filters too for ages and have had no luck in finding them in Australia! I bought a Profec B-II second hand and it said to install the filter prior to the control unit in cabin, but the guy I bought it off didn't send it to me....

The filter would assist in stopping any blow-by not already caught by the catch can etc.

I have tried the following without success...(I'm in WA)

-Supacheap

-Malz

-Autopro

-Repco

-Rocket Industries

-C-Red Tuning

-Hyperdrive

-WTF Auto

-Coventry's

-CMP

-X-Speed (said they would order it in for me - but it's been nearly four weeks now!)

-Hobby shops

-Pet shops (aqaurium filters)

-Paint shops

-Bunnings

etc.

Only place I found is US based

http://shop.edoperformance.com/hks-mini-va...4mm-p-5201.html

with postage it becomes pricey - help would be appreciated...!

Pete

Hi!

I've been looking for 4mm vacuum/boost line filters too for ages and have had no luck in finding them in Australia! I bought a Profec B-II second hand and it said to install the filter prior to the control unit in cabin, but the guy I bought it off didn't send it to me....

The filter would assist in stopping any blow-by not already caught by the catch can etc.

I have tried the following without success...(I'm in WA)

-Supacheap

-Malz

-Autopro

-Repco

-Rocket Industries

-C-Red Tuning

-Hyperdrive

-WTF Auto

-Coventry's

-CMP

-X-Speed (said they would order it in for me - but it's been nearly four weeks now!)

-Hobby shops

-Pet shops (aqaurium filters)

-Paint shops

-Bunnings

etc.

Only place I found is US based

http://shop.edoperformance.com/hks-mini-va...4mm-p-5201.html

with postage it becomes pricey - help would be appreciated...!

Pete

I posted that link a few posts up.. EDIT: Similar link.. $2USD cheaper in mine :P

Lucky me, im in the USA :laugh: Im going to get a couple for myself when i go back to NZ

Edited by gotRICE?

guys if you want I can sell you some. I buy them from japan direct though. trust ones or HKS ones. both come in either 4mm or 6mm. they are not expensive for a small part but buy the time I order and post them etc I'd say HKS ones about $20 and trust ones about $15 each. unless you buy a couple then it would be cheaper.

I will say one thing. the genuine trust and HKS ones are actually made to handle both vacuum and boost conditions. I've seen heaps of the cheap non genuine ones crack/split and just generally fail as they are piss weak. even the genuine ones can go hard/brittle over time but they are miles better.

edit: yeah trust ones $14 for 4mm and $16 for 6mm and HKS ones are $20 for either 4mm or 6mm. not cheap, but it's an option if you can't find any locally.

I would be investing in a decent quality Air filter if anything. The only other possible worry would be having blowby/oil elements travelling through the lines. and to help reduce possible elements the the blowby would just to move the blowby lines being returned to the intake to somewhere else like a catch can.

But if everyone is so interested in the inline filters, would it be a good idea to look into maybe organising a group buy for these so that we can stock up on these little puppies.

Hey Mate,

Sorry for the delay in replying....

I'm keen on getting two of the 4mm Trust ones - one to use and one as a spare....

So, how do we make this happen?

Thanks,

Pete

guys if you want I can sell you some. I buy them from japan direct though. trust ones or HKS ones. both come in either 4mm or 6mm. they are not expensive for a small part but buy the time I order and post them etc I'd say HKS ones about $20 and trust ones about $15 each. unless you buy a couple then it would be cheaper.

I will say one thing. the genuine trust and HKS ones are actually made to handle both vacuum and boost conditions. I've seen heaps of the cheap non genuine ones crack/split and just generally fail as they are piss weak. even the genuine ones can go hard/brittle over time but they are miles better.

edit: yeah trust ones $14 for 4mm and $16 for 6mm and HKS ones are $20 for either 4mm or 6mm. not cheap, but it's an option if you can't find any locally.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...