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Way back before I removed the first spot weld I spent a kings ransom on buying paints and chemicals for the job not being really sure what i would find and how deep i would need to dig.

This is available on eBay. I am in Vic and we have only been able to buy on line as all or retail is locked down  

Sika Sikaflex 527 AT White Specialist Hybrid Car Body Sealant 300ml. Automotive.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Sika-Sikaflex-527-AT-White-Specialist-Hybrid-Car-Body-Sealant-300ml-Automotive/173381054429?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

work as of yeasterday

20201017_171802.jpg

Edited by toranarod
more information

The whole point of this work is RUST so I have been treating all metal surfaces with a zinc phosphate pre-primer metal etcher called RustBlast before paint priming with a welding copper primer. What do you gurus out there think about this as a procedure before i commit to the return of the panels?  I don't know what treatment to trust my car to.

20201018_232444.jpg

On 10/21/2020 at 9:07 AM, Shoota_77 said:

Top job mate, well done!  It will be totally worth it in the end knowing it's all done right!  You'll be doing full body resto's on 260Z's in no time!

 

 

Yes I was a fan of the 260z 2+2 loved them. Did you ever see what happen to the Nissan Bluebirds?  

wire brush, clean, then paint on some rust guard rust converter, then repaint in white rust guard epoxy enamel ? 

 

then get a pair of those strut tower protector discs from JL in west australia, that stop the bar from cutting into the paint, or cut your own out

Edited by phelbas

Thanks, I was able to sand it all off with 240grit wasnt really that bad, I've rust converted the area. 

Im going to try and respray that area tomorrow, just wondering if I can prime over the small bare metal patch and old paint and primer all at once? 

And should I use etch primer or just normal surface primer be fine then top coat?

  • 2 weeks later...

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