Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Way back before I removed the first spot weld I spent a kings ransom on buying paints and chemicals for the job not being really sure what i would find and how deep i would need to dig.

This is available on eBay. I am in Vic and we have only been able to buy on line as all or retail is locked down  

Sika Sikaflex 527 AT White Specialist Hybrid Car Body Sealant 300ml. Automotive.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Sika-Sikaflex-527-AT-White-Specialist-Hybrid-Car-Body-Sealant-300ml-Automotive/173381054429?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

work as of yeasterday

20201017_171802.jpg

Edited by toranarod
more information

The whole point of this work is RUST so I have been treating all metal surfaces with a zinc phosphate pre-primer metal etcher called RustBlast before paint priming with a welding copper primer. What do you gurus out there think about this as a procedure before i commit to the return of the panels?  I don't know what treatment to trust my car to.

20201018_232444.jpg

On 10/21/2020 at 9:07 AM, Shoota_77 said:

Top job mate, well done!  It will be totally worth it in the end knowing it's all done right!  You'll be doing full body resto's on 260Z's in no time!

 

 

Yes I was a fan of the 260z 2+2 loved them. Did you ever see what happen to the Nissan Bluebirds?  

wire brush, clean, then paint on some rust guard rust converter, then repaint in white rust guard epoxy enamel ? 

 

then get a pair of those strut tower protector discs from JL in west australia, that stop the bar from cutting into the paint, or cut your own out

Edited by phelbas

Thanks, I was able to sand it all off with 240grit wasnt really that bad, I've rust converted the area. 

Im going to try and respray that area tomorrow, just wondering if I can prime over the small bare metal patch and old paint and primer all at once? 

And should I use etch primer or just normal surface primer be fine then top coat?

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
×
×
  • Create New...