Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey

Just bought a GFB dual stage BC and it needs [obviously] a rocket switch installed. Just wondering where everyone else is putting their switches

I've looked around the web and can't find a din panel available in Aus with switch mounting holes, plenty with 3 gauges but no allowance for switches. A couple are avaiable in the states.

Bit reluctant to drill holes in the dash etc so wondering what others have done.

I thought about putting a plate where the ashtray goes but couldn't find something reasonably ready made to do the job and didn't want to bodgey something up.

Ideas?

Thx

Edited by bradmax
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277054-rocket-switches/
Share on other sites

What I did with mine is looked for another lower binnacle section and ashtray from a wreck/half cut and drilled the holes into these, while keeping my original one in the shed. This way I can return it to normal with no holes whenever I wish.

I placed switches in the lower binnacle, and my shift lamp controller in the ashtray.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277054-rocket-switches/#findComment-4687066
Share on other sites

I've mounted 5 very small rocker switches in the bottom of the useless drink holder for various things... no one knows they are there until I tell them...

But it wasn't the easiest thing to do, and then you're left with 5 holes if you decide to take them out...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277054-rocket-switches/#findComment-4687168
Share on other sites

Drill holes in your head lining so they are on the roof like a real fighter jet

thats a great idea what about the sun visor? haha

when i did mine a got carbon ones so they wernt bright red and dont stick out like bog balls, i replaced my ash try and placed 3 carbon missile switches in a row, what i did got and old centre console out of a wreck that was the same colour and hacked out the shape of the ash tray face and stuck in place :laugh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277054-rocket-switches/#findComment-4687358
Share on other sites

if you want them hidden, i have the CD slot for under head unit that i modified to have the switches sitting a lil bit back so noone can notice them. when one of the switches is on, a lil neon lights up behind them.

switches mounted on a perspex insert i made to fit in the holder. will take pics 2moz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277054-rocket-switches/#findComment-4688375
Share on other sites

when i got my car, it had one to the right of the coin slots in the centre console.

i took it out though. as if i want that thing staring straight at a cop. it was bright red too lol.

post-29392-1246329935_thumb.jpg

that's where mine is.... but i have an ebc now so it does nothing....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277054-rocket-switches/#findComment-4689417
Share on other sites

I installed two black rocket switches where the useless coin holders were and a push botton switch where the antenna switch used to be to the left of the steering wheel. All look very neat and barely stand out :(

post-35676-1246445775_thumb.jpg

Edited by PM-R33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277054-rocket-switches/#findComment-4690451
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...