Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

plug 1

plug 3

plug 6

all died... after only having them in the car about a week... sam tells me its cause they dont perform under high boost... wish i had known that before :cheers:

I'd replace them all. Are you sure it's not due to detonation though, that is what normally kills plugs. I ran platinums in my car, making over 400rwhp at 18psi and there were fine. I now run BCP7ES plugs, which seem to be working very well, and there much cheaper:D

yeah it happend at calder... at first i was only running 10psi which ran a 14.08 then we decided to up it to about 13psi to get into the high 13s... this is where they melted down... 3/4 down the strip POP and black smoke... still ran a 15.4 after backing down the rest of the qtr haha nice one sam

for now ive replaced them with another 3 platinums as the dipshit at autobarn didnt know what coppers to use and the only thing his book had was platinums... i only put the others in about 2 weeks ago so they are pretty much new... just took it around the block at 9psi hitting 8500rpm around the corners and had no apparent issues... will leave the boost at the level its on incase my guage isnt showing the proper boost levels (only have ableed valve so have to rely on the guage)... looks like its time to take it to the dyno and make sure the guage is accurate.

What happened to the rest of the plug ?? Did it just melt or did it go through the valve/exhaust/turbo etc -

Nasty stuff !

I've seen other threads with other (Unigroup guys) saying that this has happened them numerous times with Iridium plus !!!

Damn I'm not gonna let this happen in my new engine !!!

Hmmmm

Looking at these plugs the mixture looks okay. No clogging soot or leaning out light tan colour.

Looks like the piston is hitting the electrode ?

If you look at the higher boost racing plugs they have the electrode way deep in the body of the plug and ewither side gap or small gap.

These seem not to ?

gordon - thats not the code of the plugs that were in there b4... i thought i kept them so i could put them in if i had any trouble with the platinums... guess i didnt.

this is the first time in over a year of having the car that this has happend... this is also the first time since owning the car ive changed the plugs... the last ones looked like they had been in their for a long time but still looked reasonably healthy. Ive run my car with 16psi without any issues on em...

i think i might pop into BMT and put it on the dyno and check the boost levels cause i think my guage isnt working properly...

oh well.. it was a costly mystery... probably one which i wont ever find out the actual cause.

yeah i think they have died in the arse again... after i put them in they ran fine... closed off the bleed valve so that it was running "stock" boost and gave it a nice run around the cheltenham rd area and now it sounds like a WRX (very bubbly and unstable.... not smooth like normal...) so more fun for me tomorow pulling everything apart and checking the plugs again.

if they have died AGAIN im taking them back and demanding my money back because that is 9 plugs ive gone thru ($180) in less than a month which is bullshit considering this is the "recommended" plug according to them.

coppers here i come!! (yet another $60)... think i might try the bosch super 4s out... no need to gap them then.

Get the NGK BKR7E. I have a set of them in my car. Very good plugs! NGK Tech said they are a better choice than the BCPR7s because of the V-grooved electrode and also more suited to Nissan heads (something about grounding). Tho the BCPR are still not bad...

The BKRs same price as the BCPRs aswell...

And stay away from the bosch plugs. Stick with NGK. They make the best plugs in the world..

Just wondering what kind of GAP the plugs had?

Have a read through the technical tips here http://www.ngkspark.com.au/ there is some VERY useful info about plugs, gapping, heat ranges etc.

FYI, this site recommends Platinums as the standard factory plug for my car, not sure about 32's or 33's though.

That site is better than www.ngk.com.au as this one doesnt have any skyline imports listed just the local 31's etc.

Well worth a read through the tech tips if you wanna know a bit more about ignition / spark plugs etc.

maybe add to sticky list :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
    • Yeah - I mean, go the other way. Smaller range. Not larger.
    • To re-cap, I bought: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8G-Infiniti-Q50-Q60-2014_1601171829627.html?spm=a2756.trade-list-buyer.0.0.2cd476e9FTIlKE As you can see, if I bought 20 it was $653, but I bought 1 so it was $1,170. I was very tempted to buy 2 and resell 1 at 25% cheaper. @MBS206, I am not sure if they do a Kluger one, here is their list but it might be there under a global model name: http://www.lsailt.com/product/android-interface?page=1 Keep in mind these full android replacements have basically all the bits a phone does (cpu, ram, storage, wifi, bluetooth, usb interfaces) other than a screen (it uses a host), thus the $800+ cost. Android Auto screen mirroring is MUCH cheaper as it's just a cut down shell, input mirroring and output mirroring BTW I also need that "screen off" feature, it is much harder to see wildlife even if a dash is reasonably dark. Both the Fuga and V37 have display off buttons for night use, they just come back on for a second or 3 if you interact with it, eg skip a song.
×
×
  • Create New...