Jump to content
SAU Community

The Big Tossup

stawka
 Share

Recommended Posts

stawka Proficient

stawka

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys.Not sure if this is in the right area but i'm sure some of you guys will help out. Here is the situation...

I just sold my Merc and have about $20K to play with. I've always loved my R32's but only had a GTST. I wanted a GTR but couldn't afford it. The only thing that stopped me from getting a GTR a year back was the fact that I don't know much about cars mechanically. I'm a gun driver, but when it comes to repairs and maintenance, i'm useless.

So I thought - play it safe, get a car with balls and looks good but with 'less headaches' ---- Get a Monaro CV8.

Now every time I see a 32 on the roads I still Jizz in my Pants :)

Now if I was to save up some more cash and get a 32 GTR with a freshly rebuilt motor, what other stuff could go wrong with the car that will set me back a few grand? I know a blown motor costs a shitload to rebuild and REALLY don't want to deal with that sort of stuff, and little things here and there will go wrong with every car, but being an '89-'93 model car it is pretty old and things will go from time to time.

So with the fact that i'm not a mechanical genius and only know how to drive the damn things (pretty good too), what do YOU think I should do?

The R34 GT-T doesn't have the balls and I have to keep spending on it to make it quick (and cops will stick it to me everywhere I go), the Monaro is a bit boring, the GTR is awesome but a bit old and fragile -- or was even thinking about a Toyota Chaser

Cheers for any help fellas.

Edited by stawka
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277797-the-big-tossup/
Share on other sites
GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted

To get the GT-R Penchant out of your system, you have to get into the system in the first place :)

I've been In-Out-In and still loving it...

Part of the secret is to get a pristine specimen in the 1st place so be patient. It may be the 2nd car you see - or in the case of the guy who bought my R33, it was the 13th.

When you've gone for an initial visit = 'scouting exercise', you then take a mechanic, a panelbeater and a negotiator at the 2nd...

Or something close to that mix! Take a list for each person to check-off on that 2nd visit. Even the negotiator (and in case that's you), needs to read the seller's body language whilst asking salient Qs.

Km readings can be falsified, so ask for past pink slips (with the Odo readouts on them). Ask what his insurance company is and see if you can call the company to check on claims.

Meanwhile your panelbeater can check on rust, damage, repairs.

Meanwhile your mechanic can check on well... need I say?

Hint! a SAU Member who's selling a great car, is more likely to sell it on here as well as on the net. Whereas, if there's too much to fix up, he's less likely to sell it on this forum.

Happy Hunting!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277797-the-big-tossup/#findComment-4696703
Share on other sites
GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted

To get the GT-R Penchant out of your system, you have to get into the system in the first place :D

I've been In-Out-In and still loving it...

Part of the secret is to get a pristine specimen in the 1st place so be patient. It may be the 2nd car you see - or in the case of the guy who bought my R33, it was the 13th.

When you've gone for an initial visit = 'scouting exercise', you then take a mechanic, a panelbeater and a negotiator at the 2nd...

Or something close to that mix! Take a list for each person to check-off on that 2nd visit. Even the negotiator (and in case that's you), needs to read the seller's body language whilst asking salient Qs.

Km readings can be falsified, so ask for past pink slips (with the Odo readouts on them). Ask what his insurance company is and see if you can call the company to check on claims.

Meanwhile your panelbeater can check on rust, damage, repairs.

Meanwhile your mechanic can check on well... need I say?

Hint! a SAU Member who's selling a great car, is more likely to sell it on here as well as on the net. Whereas, if there's too much to fix up, he's less likely to sell it on this forum.

Advantage! A great GT-R is less prone to depreciation than most other cars.

Happy Hunting! :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277797-the-big-tossup/#findComment-4696710
Share on other sites
stawka Proficient

stawka

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the help fellas.Say I was to find a 32R with a freshly rebuilt motor, how long would it last if it was regularly serviced etc, with the occasional hammering?

May seem like a stupid question, but i'm trying to do a bit of research so I don't get too deep in a mess

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277797-the-big-tossup/#findComment-4697186
Share on other sites
r32line Mentor

r32line

Posted
Posted
Thanks for the help fellas.Say I was to find a 32R with a freshly rebuilt motor, how long would it last if it was regularly serviced etc, with the occasional hammering?

May seem like a stupid question, but i'm trying to do a bit of research so I don't get too deep in a mess

With a driver as awesome as you behind the wheel it would no doubt last forever and be the fastsest car ever!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277797-the-big-tossup/#findComment-4697546
Share on other sites
stawka Proficient

stawka

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Didn't realize there would be so much sarcasm from this thread. Though I did always believe Skyline drivers were over 18, one could think otherwise after browsing through the thread.

Can we keep it on topic please? I was asking for tips and assistance, not for clowns to give their best joke of the day.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277797-the-big-tossup/#findComment-4697554
Share on other sites
madbung Grand Master

madbung

Posted
Posted (edited)

Clowns aye....

Fark that I'm outta here, Freaks!

Buy the right car, service it every 5k if you're a thrasher or 8k-10k if not.

Stock engines that are not belted daily and looked after (kept in good tune) can last for well over 10yrs of good service.

It's a nicely engineered car and like any other mechanical items you'll get out of it what you put into it.

Edited by madbung
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277797-the-big-tossup/#findComment-4697574
Share on other sites
Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

Get a Chaser or a Soarer...can't beat Toyota for reliability and thrashability. They taken everything you throw at them. Both cars are very underrated in terms of performance and they make great all rounders.

Alternatively, as has been suggested, supercharging you Monaro may take care of the boredom factor...at the expense of engine longevity.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277797-the-big-tossup/#findComment-4698060
Share on other sites
r32line Mentor

r32line

Posted
Posted
Didn't realize there would be so much sarcasm from this thread. Though I did always believe Skyline drivers were over 18, one could think otherwise after browsing through the thread.

Can we keep it on topic please? I was asking for tips and assistance, not for clowns to give their best joke of the day.

Well dont come on here saying how you are an awesome driver twice in one post... But you are most likely one of those types of people that constantly needs to reassure yourself.

Aside from this, to answer your question: "How long is a piece of string". A rebuilt engine's life is impossible to determine. What one person calls thrashing is what someone else would think is complete abuse of the car. I have heard of rebuilds blowing a week after being completed.

So if you do get one and thrash it very hard it will not take it forever.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277797-the-big-tossup/#findComment-4698336
Share on other sites
Johnny Veteran

Johnny

Posted
Posted
Well dont come on here saying how you are an awesome driver twice in one post... But you are most likely one of those types of people that constantly needs to reassure yourself.

Im sure he was jst kidding.

Id say you must own a GTR at least once in your life, there are times you will hate it for being too harsh as a daily driver and other times you will be amazed everytime you turn the key.

They are a proper race car for the road in contrast to monaro which is more of a muscle car, hence the big lazy v8 with plenty of torque.

I hated my GTR after i got it cos i was so paranoid about it but once i got a daily and took my gtr out only once a week on quiet roads at night or nice sunny day, i appreciate it fully now and would not change up as its jst a tonne and a half of testosterone.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277797-the-big-tossup/#findComment-4699389
Share on other sites
GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted
Id say you must own a GTR at least once in your life, there are times you will hate it for being too harsh as a daily driver and other times you will be amazed everytime you turn the key.

They are a proper race car for the road in contrast to monaro which is more of a muscle car, hence the big lazy v8 with plenty of torque.

I hated my GTR after i got it cos i was so paranoid about it but once i got a daily and took my gtr out only once a week on quiet roads at night or nice sunny day, i appreciate it fully now and would not change up as its jst a tonne and a half of testosterone.

^^^ Now THAT'S THE SPIRIT!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277797-the-big-tossup/#findComment-4699502
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
×
×
  • Create New...