Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I plan on buying a new ecu in the coming weeks and I need a little help deciding which way to go. The car is an R32 with RB20DET and i've just installed a larger turbo, new manifold, external gate, cams and ajustable gears, ebc and a few other things.

I'd been planning for a while to go with the Nistune, until i went and spoke to the only local guy that does dyno tuning. (I'm out in the sticks). He's never had any experience with the Nistune, but he's a Vipec dealer and has done a few of them in skylines now.

So what I'd like to know, is whether either of the ecu's have any specific advantages? I do like the advantage of my car being tuned locally by a guy with a bit of experience on similar setups, but I also like the price of the Nistune.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278238-nistune-vs-vipec/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 67
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yes the Vipec is a very decent ecu. You should go with it. However your tuner should also be able to tune a Nistune.

The vipec cannot be compared to the Nistune because they are totally difference ecu's. You can compare a power fc and a nistune like you can compare a Vipec & Motec.

They are totally different. one does the job and works okay, the other does the job and can make you breakfast.

If you go down the vipec route, you can pull out your ebc and use the vipec to control boost for just a added $130 part so you can get the vipec for a bit cheaper and have decent boost control as well.

for the price you can't beat nistune. it gives you all the features you need as far as being able to change injector size, afm and do full adjustment of ignition and fuel maps. and most of all, full installed and tuned it will probably cost a lot less than just buying the vipec ecu, which would then leave money in your pocket for other mods

There's one tuner in town and he does vipec. He's done a few skylines and some silvias and supras with vipecs now. His main clientel is v8's but he seems to be a decent tuner.

Other than that its a 5 hour drive to Sydney or 4 hours to Canberra.

Nope. I don't really mind towing the car to be tuned if i have to, but thats basically gonna add a few hundred bucks to the cost, and i still wouldn't have local support if something were to go wrong.

Vipec is starting to look like an attractive option! :laugh:

by the sounds of it vipec is the most viable option.. after you take in costs of towing etc if something goes wrong and so on.. might be a better to have a higher initial outlay of $$$ to save furhter $$ in the future "incase" something goes wrong

have you asked your tuner about power fc ?whats your plans with the car & whats the mod list, if its just basic upgrades, there is no need to go vipec.

Listed most of the mods in the first post. Its nothing crazy, but its further than the basic upgrades most people do. The turbo is a HKS T300s but i will most likely change that fairly soon anyway to something a bit newer and slightly more responsive. :pirate:

by the sounds of it vipec is the most viable option.. after you take in costs of towing etc if something goes wrong and so on.. might be a better to have a higher initial outlay of $$$ to save furhter $$ in the future "incase" something goes wrong

Thats pretty much the same train of thought i'm having.

in your situation with the distance i would go with what the tuner advises.

but i am looking at getting a Nistune soon, basically because my car is just a streeter, my tuner does both. and obviously i am gonna go the cheaper option because all i need is to maybe have the timing and fuel maps changed, and possibly allow for larger injectors and the Nistune will do that.

but i have heard great things about the Vipec, but i think $14k is enough to spend on a car in 8 months!

time to start holding onto my money

brez

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...