Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I plan on buying a new ecu in the coming weeks and I need a little help deciding which way to go. The car is an R32 with RB20DET and i've just installed a larger turbo, new manifold, external gate, cams and ajustable gears, ebc and a few other things.

I'd been planning for a while to go with the Nistune, until i went and spoke to the only local guy that does dyno tuning. (I'm out in the sticks). He's never had any experience with the Nistune, but he's a Vipec dealer and has done a few of them in skylines now.

So what I'd like to know, is whether either of the ecu's have any specific advantages? I do like the advantage of my car being tuned locally by a guy with a bit of experience on similar setups, but I also like the price of the Nistune.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278238-nistune-vs-vipec/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 67
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yes the Vipec is a very decent ecu. You should go with it. However your tuner should also be able to tune a Nistune.

The vipec cannot be compared to the Nistune because they are totally difference ecu's. You can compare a power fc and a nistune like you can compare a Vipec & Motec.

They are totally different. one does the job and works okay, the other does the job and can make you breakfast.

If you go down the vipec route, you can pull out your ebc and use the vipec to control boost for just a added $130 part so you can get the vipec for a bit cheaper and have decent boost control as well.

for the price you can't beat nistune. it gives you all the features you need as far as being able to change injector size, afm and do full adjustment of ignition and fuel maps. and most of all, full installed and tuned it will probably cost a lot less than just buying the vipec ecu, which would then leave money in your pocket for other mods

There's one tuner in town and he does vipec. He's done a few skylines and some silvias and supras with vipecs now. His main clientel is v8's but he seems to be a decent tuner.

Other than that its a 5 hour drive to Sydney or 4 hours to Canberra.

Nope. I don't really mind towing the car to be tuned if i have to, but thats basically gonna add a few hundred bucks to the cost, and i still wouldn't have local support if something were to go wrong.

Vipec is starting to look like an attractive option! :laugh:

by the sounds of it vipec is the most viable option.. after you take in costs of towing etc if something goes wrong and so on.. might be a better to have a higher initial outlay of $$$ to save furhter $$ in the future "incase" something goes wrong

have you asked your tuner about power fc ?whats your plans with the car & whats the mod list, if its just basic upgrades, there is no need to go vipec.

Listed most of the mods in the first post. Its nothing crazy, but its further than the basic upgrades most people do. The turbo is a HKS T300s but i will most likely change that fairly soon anyway to something a bit newer and slightly more responsive. :pirate:

by the sounds of it vipec is the most viable option.. after you take in costs of towing etc if something goes wrong and so on.. might be a better to have a higher initial outlay of $$$ to save furhter $$ in the future "incase" something goes wrong

Thats pretty much the same train of thought i'm having.

in your situation with the distance i would go with what the tuner advises.

but i am looking at getting a Nistune soon, basically because my car is just a streeter, my tuner does both. and obviously i am gonna go the cheaper option because all i need is to maybe have the timing and fuel maps changed, and possibly allow for larger injectors and the Nistune will do that.

but i have heard great things about the Vipec, but i think $14k is enough to spend on a car in 8 months!

time to start holding onto my money

brez

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...