Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Most of you are aware I am in the middle of repainting my car in Ford Breeze and it will be time to start re assembling the car.

Looking at doing the roof rails and other exterior trims like the B and C pillar panels, the trim on the hatch above the number plate and the wind/rain deflectors, they are starting to look a bit tired.

I am considering going with a fake carbon look from Mad coatings on some of these items.

If I do not go with the carbon look, I might try what Ford are currently doing with thier colour schemes on the FPV's and use a dark charcoal grey to do these trims and roof rails.

Will the carbon look too fake or rice?

It will not be cheap to do, I am dropping to talk to Mad coatings on Monday and get a price. My guess could be $400-600.

http://www.mad-coatings.com/?page=gallery&...rod=carbonfiber

The dark green stagea in this thread has painted the roof rails in matching body colour. Looks pretty good I think.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Pi...amp;hl=uk%2A%2A

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279353-should-i-fake-it-or-not/
Share on other sites

hmm i dono, i kinda like the carbon look if its done right... like it would want to look just black or dark grey from a distance but up close it looks CF. I'd be having a look at it at their shop before making a decision...

Just my 2C :) then i again i do have a bright green speckle cam covers :) i like bright n fun, and your going for custom paint with an R34 front... its already showy might as well keep it going.

Colour coded roof rails are an improvement. Have you considered removing them? (ref methamphetamachine's "psymin")

I actually prefer the rails as to no rails.

Blits on the gold coast have the job making up new replacement roof rails

rb26stagea and greenghost started this off with them and have been waiting for over 4 months

I have a dead line to have the car fully sorted by the end of August, so I can not wait.

I AM 40! and think carbon fiber (done properly) is the sexiest thing since Salma Hayek :iluvff:

The key to CF imho is not to go stupid with it and cover too much.

Don't like rice? buy a Volvo LOL. There's rice and there's yuk. You'll never please everyone whatever you do. But some nicely done CF in the right places would look good imho.

I think the key here is;

Carbon fibre, has a great look, the weave gets picked up by the light.

Carbon fibre "look" is fairly shite; an excellent addition to your neighbours Hyundai wiper arms.

Don't forget "proper" carbon fibre can be wet laid onto virtually any surface, just depends on the depth of your pockets.

I AM 40! and think carbon fiber (done properly) is the sexiest thing since Salma Hayek :iluvff:

The key to CF imho is not to go stupid with it and cover too much.

Don't like rice? buy a Volvo LOL. There's rice and there's yuk. You'll never please everyone whatever you do. But some nicely done CF in the right places would look good imho.

I don't like rice and I did buy a Vol... Hey! Wait a minute!!!

CF can look great, namely as an exhaust surround on a Ferrari F1, but I think putting fake CF on the parts mentioned (roof rails, B and C pillar panels, the trim on the hatch above the number plate,wind/rain deflectors) would look a bit... well... cheap. Especially considering how much time and effort is being put into the conversion, not to mention that colour of paint!

btw carbon fiber as sexy as this?

salma_hayek_013.jpg

or this??

SalmaHayek_012.jpg

For shaaaaammmmme

Darrin, Fake cf? NO!

Blits are absolutely useless: do you want my roof rail replacement kit?? The Jap kit isn't ideal: doesn't sit how I want it to, so I'm more than likely going to get mine done in metal (welded), and let GreenGhost get a kit/moulds sorted.

For my money, I'd go the Audi look and chrome the suckers, if I were keeping them on, but I have no idea what the cost would: susbstantial would be my bet.

From the choices you offered, I would go the Charcoal.

My 2 cents...

I don't like rice and I did buy a Vol... Hey! Wait a minute!!!

CF can look great, namely as an exhaust surround on a Ferrari F1, but I think putting fake CF on the parts mentioned (roof rails, B and C pillar panels, the trim on the hatch above the number plate,wind/rain deflectors) would look a bit... well... cheap. Especially considering how much time and effort is being put into the conversion, not to mention that colour of paint!

btw carbon fiber as sexy as this?

salma_hayek_013.jpg

or this??

SalmaHayek_012.jpg

For shaaaaammmmme

Your lucky I have no photoshop skillz - or I'd be wrapping a naked Salma Hayek in carbon fiber :iluvff:

I don't like rice and I did buy a Vol... Hey! Wait a minute!!!

CF can look great, namely as an exhaust surround on a Ferrari F1, but I think putting fake CF on the parts mentioned (roof rails, B and C pillar panels, the trim on the hatch above the number plate,wind/rain deflectors) would look a bit... well... cheap. Especially considering how much time and effort is being put into the conversion, not to mention that colour of paint!

btw carbon fiber as sexy as this?

salma_hayek_013.jpg

or this??

SalmaHayek_012.jpg

For shaaaaammmmme

id like to present the award for BEST POST EVER to iamhe77 for his reference to Salma Hayek being hotter than carbon fibre.

but seriously, carbon can look good. but be careful alot of that fake stuff doesnt stand up to heat (like a locked up car in the sun) and direct sunlight. then it bubbles up, fades or peels and looks crap. can i say crap on this forum??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...