Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 340
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Hahahah yep, good thing with the microtech is that its quite simple, no VCT wiring, No AAC valve, etc etc, so its just injectors, ignition, fuel pumps and the CAS, although I have heard that the altenator needs to be hooked up to the dash light otherwise it wont charge....that sounds like an old wives tale to me though, guess I will find out

Brake lights are easy, headlights will just be a switch on the dash same with wipers

Charcoal cannister is long gone lol, just gotta remove the lines now. I thought about no booster, but my knees are fubar, and i sometimes struggle on track with the booster, so non assisted brakes are a no no.

I'll find out for you in regards to the alternator... I'm being lent some top secret information that should have that in it... :P

I havent heard of anyone having much success without the booster. A few people that weve raced with have done it and then reverted back.

You will save a fair whack of weight too. There is so much useless wiring....

I havent heard of anyone having much success without the booster. A few people that weve raced with have done it and then reverted back.

You will save a fair whack of weight too. There is so much useless wiring....

The only people I've heard of that have reverted, haven't changed the brake pedal ratio.

I'll find out for you in regards to the alternator... I'm being lent some top secret information that should have that in it... :(

A light is required as it is used as such to turn the alternator on.

A small dash globe in a pilot light is what I use as its enough to do the job. An LED can also be used but it must be used in conjunction with a resistor otherwise it wont charge initialy when you start it. I have used LED's by them selves but its not perfect.

the wiring is easy for the alt itself. the 2 pin plug that goes into the back is has a diagram on the alternator that should show S / L the S needs to have a battery feed and the L needs to run to one side of a pilot light and the other side of the pilot light needs to be switched on by the ignition. key on light comes on. start engine light goes out.

also you will be grate full for having the light down the track when the alt shits itself you will know straight up.

That is possible, though some went to an aftermarket pedal box, which no doubt was different to standard (but possibly not correct, or maybe was, never got into that detail about it) and said the braking/pedal feel wasnt as good as standard. No suprises there. However, I cant see it being as good as the standard assisted setup. Seems like more a space saving/minor weight saving thing to do, rather then something that will actually kelp you go faster around the track....

But each to their own :( Lol though maybe qld'ers cant work it out as well as you nsw'ers.

Exactly. Change the pedal ratio and size the master cylinder properly for a setup without assistance and it works okay.

You will bend tr firewall and pedal bracket if not reinforced well.

Hence why most atleast buy an overhung pedal box with a 6.25 pedal ratio.

It's not as simple as relocating the pivot pin to change the ratio either. The pushrods needs to remain square to the rear of the master cylinder so there is some stuffing around with cylinder mounting.

Well worth the effort of going non assisted.

Who ever was doing that pedal box had no idea how to set it up properly. A well done system will give you a far superior pedal feel and feedback, it's more consistant particularly when you start left foot braking, you gain proper bias control and the pedal can be styled to suit anyones driving habbits with the right masters.

It took us a while to get our heads around master sizing and so forth but done right they are worth it.

Edited by Risking

I use tilton products as I have an awesome supplier for them. In a skyline we use a steel twin pedal hung box. by the time you factor in the two pedals, the mounting you need to do ( really needs to hang from a dash bar on a cage) the three master cylinders ( 2 brake 1 clutch) 3 resiviours and hoses etc there is very little if any weight saving.

Using a 3 pedal tilton floor mount in my r34 which is possibly as heavy as factory system if not more.

Good to hear you guys figured it all out. We never bothered looking into it after we hadnt seen anyone else with much success doing it. Plus never had any issues with the factory setup and alcon brakes. It took me quite a while to left brake and get used to the sensativity....But like anything you adapt and get a feel for it.

But I can see how the setup could easily be tailored to suit.

Edited by r33_racer
A light is required as it is used as such to turn the alternator on.

A small dash globe in a pilot light is what I use as its enough to do the job. An LED can also be used but it must be used in conjunction with a resistor otherwise it wont charge initialy when you start it. I have used LED's by them selves but its not perfect.

the wiring is easy for the alt itself. the 2 pin plug that goes into the back is has a diagram on the alternator that should show S / L the S needs to have a battery feed and the L needs to run to one side of a pilot light and the other side of the pilot light needs to be switched on by the ignition. key on light comes on. start engine light goes out.

also you will be grate full for having the light down the track when the alt shits itself you will know straight up.

Awesome :(

That is exactly what i needed to know :D

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...