Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My passenger front wheel bearing went a couple of years ago (~85,000km's mark).

Was quoted $211 from FTG Nissan. (The Used Car service later tried to bill me $420 to include labour, but ended up backing down when new car service agreed that was the quoted price)

It is a sealed unit which "pops" off with the applicable tool.

Took them 9 business days to get it in from Japan.

Be sure it is the bearings. Mine was bloody loud, but was a tad quieter at higher speeds.

Don't worry about changing both. I haven't yet had an issue with the other three and, like I said, the one I had replaced was done around this time in 2007.

The M35 wheel bearings are a complete (sealed?) unit so you have to buy them from Nissan Japan. Most Aust Nissan Dealers will organise it for you. Its not cheap though, I was quoted something like $280 a side just for parts. labour would've been on top of that.

Normally people recommend doing both at once, just on the assumption that if one is going, the other cant be far off...

My M35 has now done 98000km and mine are still good - they didn't actually need replacing in the end. I suspected they were faulty several months back but after some diagnosis it turned out to be just really noisy tires.

Are you sure its bearings? I was told by a mechanic that the way to tell if its a bearing is to try putting more load on it (ie. turn away from that wheel - obviously when going slow). A bearing thats on its way out will get noisier when its loaded up, so it should get noisier when more weight is applied to that corner.

When I was checking mine out, the noise was pretty constant and even got quieter as I got over 80-100km/h (although still audible). It didn't get louder when cornering at low speeds. This is what made me suspect that the noise was something else. After trying different wheels on the car it became evident the noise was in fact just tires.

if your bearings/hubs are stuffed, jack the car up, grab the wheel at the top and bottom and try to move it, if it moves, replace. and yeah to both sides at the same time........

maybe 4 if you can afford it!!

The car is currently at Jocaro Motors in braeside Melbourne...

and yes its only a 2003 model and has only done 38,000 km's, they've also told me that the back wheels aren't aligned. I'm guessing that the previous owner might have hit something while driving for the bearing to be out (front left bearing is gone) the noise has been loud, speed was around 60-85km ph.

What do you guys reckon?

Thanks for your advice by the way.

Edited by macdog

Thanks macdog,

looks like there are enough of us 35 owners in Melbourne to have a decent meet... just wait till I get mine back from Kewish, im without it for another 2 weeks while they rebuild the auto. :)

Thanks macdog,

looks like there are enough of us 35 owners in Melbourne to have a decent meet... just wait till I get mine back from Kewish, im without it for another 2 weeks while they rebuild the auto. :rofl:

Definately, great ocean road... probably won't get mine back until late next week.

I'm driving up to Jindabyne on the 23rd of August... That reminds me... whats the best way to get from Melbourne to Jindabyne? (and the fastest)?

Definately, great ocean road... probably won't get mine back until late next week.

I'm driving up to Jindabyne on the 23rd of August... That reminds me... whats the best way to get from Melbourne to Jindabyne? (and the fastest)?

Google Maps is your friend

post-31842-1249000571_thumb.jpg

Looks like a fun drive (if a little harsh on the fuel the closer you get to Jindabyne)

Edited by iamhe77
Definately, great ocean road... probably won't get mine back until late next week.

I'm driving up to Jindabyne on the 23rd of August... That reminds me... whats the best way to get from Melbourne to Jindabyne? (and the fastest)?

If your going up the mountian (driving to the ski fields and not hopping on the stinky train) hit me a pm and we'll meet up there!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...