Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had my Stagea thru Sturt Rd around 4weeks ago. Brought it down from Queensland, and took in all my receipts (ie fresh QLD Roadworthy Certificate, QLD rego papers, receipt for the purchase of the car, etc). Had new tyres on the car, and was in clean condition.

I dont recall them looking at the paperwork at all. They took down the numbers from the engine, vin, chassis etc, and filled out a form, which then gets processed when you go to Registration & licensing to get your new SA plates and pay stamp duty and other fees.

But, I did take all the obvious mods off from the car - bought a standard airbox in lieu of the pod filter, took out the boost controller that was in the engine bay, and removed the dash mounted boost gauge. Took it all off 'cause I didnt want trouble. I reckon your brakes will be fine, unless they scrutineer your tyres that you mentioned....

Maybe take off what goodies you can, and have it in a box in the car. If they start going over the car and all that then show 'em what you've taken off and tell 'em you've been trying to do the right thing, Im sure they will appreciate that. Also, take whatever paperwork you have.

Sturt Rd is open 9-3 Wednesday and Thursday only.

Good luck. Brendan ;);)

Yeah as Nozilla said,

I got mine transferred from interstate ( VIC )

unlike you poor bastards in the metro area where they pull u over a pit, I was working out at whyalla, so I took my cr to the cop shop and got them to check the engine number ( hard to find in the light .. best in the dark with a torch ) then after the paper work was filled out it was a simple transfer at the transport SA with no vehicle inspection whatsoever..

If I'd been in adelaide.. straight to regency I reckon!!!

my mate's sis bought a second hand 1 year old 2002 celica and they still made her go over the pits.,. so yeah.. gotta love the country.

I've offered to will already , but yeah.. u can just use my mates address in whyalla, come there during the day.. register..and drive home..

tell em, ur living out there for work.. i.e. at the steel works. etc.

pretty dodge.. but no hassles..

my car is so low.. I can just fit half a coke can under it, it had boost gauge, pod filter, front strut. But the cops out here dun really care as long as your not a hoon.

they are pretty decent.

Cheers

Iceduck

Recently I brought a GTR N1 over from NSW. It is modified. All I had to do at Regency was get an identity check, and they handed me a set of SA plates.

Morale of the story? Buy a modified, registered car from interstate and hope you don't get defected on the road here :(

I doubt a cop opening your bonnet roadside without a search warrant is legal? Can anyone comment on that?

Yep, 100% untrue.

Suspicion of non compliance of a vehicle is all they need.

If you said no, they could defect you simply for their suspicion.

Onus is on the driver to prove compliance, not the officer to prove non-compliance.

for a regency defect you have to do something fair stupid in front of them.

I have been defected to christies [closest cop shop] for bald tyres, when my car was parked.

Regence twice in my rota coz i was caught doing donuts and shit a couple of times.

regency is to teach you a lesson!! in the defect notice there is major and minor inspections.

It also depends on the Police Officer you get, and the mood he/she is in. Major items (engine/emmissions/structural etc) need to go to regency, minor stuff (tyres etc) can be done at other locations.

If they have had a bad day, or just want to be difficult they can say they THINK (no need for them to prove it) you have a BOV (even a stock one), exhaust is too loud, modified turbo, ECU, car too low, and send you to regency.

Finally got my white GTR through Regency (2nd attempt). Went from Bilstein shocks to Aus delivered R32 GTR shocks (thanks GTROB), to Jap delivered R32 GTR shocks to get through and even then the guy said it looked too low... so he didn't measure it. The exhaust was initially too loud - 92db @ 3200rpm - and with a baffle plate the guy still though it was too loud... so he didn't test it. What a legend. He could have been a real pain in the arse but chose not to be. Now I can replace all the stuff, get it dyno tuned, and finally sell the car. yay!

  • 3 weeks later...
It also depends on the Police Officer you get, and the mood he/she is in. Major items (engine/emmissions/structural etc) need to go to regency, minor stuff (tyres etc) can be done at other locations.

If they have had a bad day, or just want to be difficult they can say they THINK (no need for them to prove it) you have a BOV (even a stock one), exhaust is too loud, modified turbo, ECU, car too low, and send you to regency.

i guess thats what sucks the most.... you spend all this money on ur car and then ur at the mercy of some uneducated pig having his period*. Ive known of plenty of people defected just driving casually down a street observing speed limit.

*but most cops are fairly reasonable and nice however you only need one to be screwed over :O

i have just brought a 32gtr from inter-state. i have to go for a road worthy i just found out 2day, the guy i rang was a fair f**k head about it all. oh well

i think the only thing i have on me car that is "illeagel" is the turbo timer. otherwise, i have exhaust(pretty quiet), stock comp(re-mapped), larger injectors and and r34 turbos(i think they are the same as the stock 32gtr but ball bearing).

should that stuff be ok??

Well, I'm going to have to put my 32 through regency in late november / early december, and I'm fairly familiar with relevant legislation, ADRs and what-not, so this should be interesting. Being a lawyer and all... :)

I think I'll turn up in a full suit, brieface on the passenger seat, and my best court-face on. If the inspector starts up with the I-could-defect-you-but-I-wont crap, I'll let him have it where it hurts - legally! :P

Anyone can call someone an asshole for being a prick about approving a car, but I think it's more fun if you make a formal complaint and have them fired! B)

Will let you all know how it goes anyway...

Adrian.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...