Jump to content
SAU Community

Gt3076r Specifications - Clarification Needed

evsr31

By evsr31,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

evsr31 Collaborator

evsr31

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi Guys,

Seen a few threads on here but really just wanted some clarification from the experts and I know that the GT3076R is quite a popular upgrade for an rb25.

Looking at putting one on myself, but there's 2 different options.

Apparently Garrett released a GT3076R part no (774067-5001) and it has a T04S 4" bellmouth comp housing, specs below -

Turbo Family: GT30

Turbine Inducer: 60.0mm

Compressor Inducer: 55.0mm

Compressor Exducer: 76.0mm

Compressor A/R: 0.70

Turbine A/R: 0.82

Bearing Type: Ball Bearing

Bearing Cooling: Oil & Water

Pic listed on their site for this particular turbo -

photophp.jpg

And then there is the other Garrett option - GT3076R (aka HKS3037S) part no (700177-7)

Turbo Family: GT30

Turbine Inducer: 60.00mm

Compressor Inducer: 57.00mm

Compressor Exducer: 76.2mm

Compressor A/R: 0.60

Turbine A/R: 0.82

Bearing Type: Ball Bearing

Bearing Cooling: Oil & Water

post-9594-1163673630.jpg

Very slight variances apart from the 0.70 A/R compared to 0.60...

I can get the first one for around 1650, and the one with the anti surge (700177-7) comp housing for about $300.00 more..

Going a .82 ext gate option, has anyone tried the first one? and results?

Edited by evsr31
discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted (edited)

The part number for the port shrouded turbocharger one is 700382-12 , 700177-7 is its cartridge number - basically the center section with both end housings removed .

This is my opinion based on my research and hundreds of peoples findings all over .

The surge ported one has the more modern compressor wheel and is the same era technology as its turbine wheel . What people call the S wheel is a "T" series wheel designed to work with T era turbines .

That aside the cheaper one with the "S" compressor has a larger bulkier heavier compressor housing so it's a bit more difficult to package . If nothing else weight and bulk are best avoided where possible .

There are a lot of reasons why the surge ported GT3076R is the superior unit and there is a weeks worth of reading on this site just on these units .

It the cost was the only criteria you buy the cheaper one - and regret it ever after . $300 is a tidy sum of money but it's chicken feed compared to buying an inferior turbocharger and having to right the wrong . Those wise to the topic won't want to buy the inferior turbo no matter how new it is and the only cost recovery strategy is selling to a newbie or cost cutting to get rid of it . So lets just say you resell a now "used" turbo for several hundreds less than you paid for it and have to wear the cost of the new more exy better turbo .

So with the real GT3076R you get a better compressor wheel in a lighter more compact compressor housing AND you can use any of the available Garrett or HKS GT30 turbine housing sizes ranging from 0.61 A/R to 1.12 A/R and it shouldn't surge .

Search GT3076R and GT3037 and take note of people who have real world experience because they've been there done that .

I'm cooking up , if I can source the bits , a slight variation of the GT3076R which is all Garrett parts and no sneaky back yard BS . If you can wait a little while we'll see if it gives the desired results . If not buy the real GT3076R and know you have one of the better "GT30" family BB turbo options .

Over to you , cheers A .

Edited by discopotato03
evsr31 Collaborator

evsr31

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Cheers mate, I was hoping that you would post in this thread. That has cleared up everything.

I will be going a .82 ext garrett housing, supporting mods (z32 afm, 600cc squirts, 38mm gate) and eventually cams to help with the lag issue that would probably be expected with the bigger .82 housing.

JonnoHR31 Grand Master

JonnoHR31

Posted
Posted

just to give you an idea my 3076 hits full boost (19psi) around 3600-3800 depending on load. may sound laggy but it really isnt once you drive it. down low i actually prefer it to the stock turbo. mynes on stock manifold with internal gate btw, so with a good manifold and external gate you should decent boost even earlier

Aberax Grand Master

Aberax

Posted
Posted

I just bought myself this a few weeks ago.

32160820069_large.jpg

32160820071_large.jpg

Some people i have been speaking to in the SA section say that this turbo is too big for a RB25, and that it is going to be real laggy. But i wont really know for a few weeks till i have it installed. That is the 0.82 rear housing i think, it has it stamped inside somewhere.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
Aberax Grand Master

Aberax

Posted
Posted

I got mine on a few weeks ago, see's full boost around 4k rpm. It is running 15psi and the car is making 265rwkw, boost hits pretty hard....love it. As it is spooling sounds like a jet.

Haines Rising Star

Haines

Posted
Posted

full boost at 4k sounds abit laggy

is it an internal gate

when i had the internal .73ar it was laggy but still full boost before then

with my external mine hits 18psi around 3200 - 3500 (.82ar) and thats with a .5 bar spring with the gain turned up on the EBC to crack at 14psi

so its way more responsive then the internal gate

I think it will get better still when I put in the 1 bar spring

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • MBS206
      What should I do next to hold the head on

      By MBS206 · Posted

      When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • jez NF
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By jez NF · Posted

    • Rezz
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By Rezz · Posted

      Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • Kinkstaah
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...