Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all,

I've just read the topic at top about the oils to use on your vehicle, but I'm still confused on what to use.

First of all my vehicle idles above 1000rev's in the morning wen its cold. Seems like my mechanic over filled my engine. Since I've got the car it seems like the car didn't burn any of the oil. It's still above the H line.

It's a road car but I'm thinking of making it a track car as well.

Can anyone think or tell me what's the best oil to use.

I tend to get confused on this so much, fact is so much information around that you don't know which one to take.

Thank You

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/283262-oil-for-my-gtr-r32/
Share on other sites

With RBs its ok for the oil level to be slightly above H as most of us track go'ers overfill anyway. Depends on your budget and how much you want to spend every 5k oil change? Ideally a full synthetic 5W-40 or 10W-40 is what you want.

Yeah money doesn't matter to me.

My vehicle done about 96,000km's and i just want a oil that does it job and not wear out my engine.

I'm doing about 5k-7k oil change. What brand is good because I see a lot of brands around.

Thank you.

hey all,

I've just read the topic at top about the oils to use on your vehicle, but I'm still confused on what to use.

First of all my vehicle idles above 1000rev's in the morning wen its cold. Seems like my mechanic over filled my engine. Since I've got the car it seems like the car didn't burn any of the oil. It's still above the H line.

It's a road car but I'm thinking of making it a track car as well.

Can anyone think or tell me what's the best oil to use.

I tend to get confused on this so much, fact is so much information around that you don't know which one to take.

Thank You

That's normal for you car to rev over 1000rpm in the morning, cuz the car is cold. Once the car is warmed up the revs will drop to 1000rpm.

Depending on the condition on your engine...

From my understanding, R32's were made back in the day where Mineral based oils were available and that's what Nissan had use to engineer the car.

A lot of ppl go full synthetic, but a top quality Semi Synthetic would be just as good for the older RB engines.

It's normal for turbo cars to burn a bit of oil, just make sure you do your regular top ups.

Motul Chrono 300V is probably the very best you can get, its a 10w-40 Full Synthetic (but a unique full synth being that it's double ester).. expensive, works out to be about $140 for 6l (only comes in 4l and 2l bottles).

I use Motul 8100 X-Cess, it's a 5w-40 full synth and is about $75 for 5 litres, there is another Motul 8100 that is 10w-40 which is same price roughly.

Motul 4100 Turbolight alot of people here use, its a top quality 10-40w semi synth and its about $50 for 5 litres. Perfect for a street only car imo.

As for cheap alternatives for good full synths, have a look at performancelub.com the Mobil 1 and German Castrol in particular (the Redline on there is a very good full synth, and the Royal Purple XPR is a very good synth as well, the Amsoil another full synth that has a pretty good rep in the states)

G'morning all

Thank you for all the advise guys, i might give the Motul Chrono 300V 10w-40 full Synthetic a go first. See if my car will respond better, if not I'll give the Amsoil a go as well.

BTW do you know where I can get these products? I'm located in Perth.

Thank you very much for the help!

SLinky-{A}

yep, I vote for the motul chrono 300V too. it's a great oil. I have done UOA (used oil analysis) on my old GTR and the results were very good, I've also got some info from motul here on their analysis and as expected it's a great product. expensive but worth it in my opinion.

If money really doesn't matter Redline oils appear to have better HTHS than the Motul 300V, but they seem to be a fair bit more expensive, so i cant see that its really worth it. Much more important than worrying about which oil is worrying about oil starvation and temperature. Before track days i fill the oil up to to bottom of the bendy bit on the dipstick, which is a fair bit above the H mark. I also have an oil cooler and keep a close eye on the temperature, and stop if it gets to 110 degrees.

Hey guys,

Thx again for the information, I'll got my service next week because my car still got warranty.

I'll give the mechanic a call and tell them to order in Motul Chrono 300V 10w-40 full Synthetic.

I'll give updating on how the oil go's.

Thx

SLinky-{A}

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...