Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Like I said I'm looking for something thats going to cover me for the max power of the 2860-5's, will they do the job? I just don't want them to anywhere close to maxing out. As asked before what is everyone with sard 700's using? the single hole version???

Nothing wrong with the single hole Sard (Denso) injectors as their spray pattern is really good. I use 700cc ones in my R33 GTR equipped with HKS GT-SS turbos. It makes 330kw at 1.3 bar boost, injectors are at around 65 - 70% duty cycle.

My R32 makes 560kw at wheels with the 1000cc single hole injectors at around 70% duty also. I was running 660cc injectors and made 450kw at wheels on 99%. So 600 - 700cc will definitely be fine for you.

I'm selling the 660cc ones at the moment for a good price and will fit your application well - no modifications.

z32 afms are not better then nismo ones, nismo ones basically have z32 internal, in a standard diameter pipe,

advantages with nismos , direct bolt on everything fits,

disadvantages with z32, needs new plugs and different piping, but be able to stretch exiting piping to fit

id rather get nismo afm as the will flow bout the same

z32 afms are not better then nismo ones, nismo ones basically have z32 internal, in a standard diameter pipe,

advantages with nismos , direct bolt on everything fits,

disadvantages with z32, needs new plugs and different piping, but be able to stretch exiting piping to fit

id rather get nismo afm as the will flow bout the same

80mm is def less restriction than 65mm.

They aren't just Z32 internals in a smaller housing because if that was the case, it'd max out way too early because the air has to travel faster through the smaller diameter. I reckon a Z32 sensor and circuit in a RB26 AFM housing would max out at about 180rwkw each.

Nismo's are def fine and if he said he had a standard airbox, that'd def be the go but because he has pods, it's cheaper and slightly less restriction than nismos and u get a set of brand new filters with the money saved.

Yeh that's how much until they max out. That PROVES that nismo have different internals to Z32 because Z32 internals in an RB26 housing would max out far less. I didn't say nismo afm's max out at 180rwkw each, i said if z32 internals were put in an RB26 housing, it'd max out at about 180. Read what i wrote again.

Both Nismo and Z32 AFM's can read very similar max flow but the nismos are more of a restriction as they are smaller. It's only marginal i know but if it's cheaper then every little it less restriction helps.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...