Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Furthermore everyone should dry sump without question regardless of their needs or requirement as risk is not good.

problem with a dry sump setup is cost - for something decent you are looking at up to 7k

Ofcourse every oil pump is a risk. But we dont log on here to see every couple of months a comment about how my std oil pump just killed my motor, or my (insert brand name here) pump just shat itself...its always the N1 pumps that come up either on here, or in conversation/passing comment or someone at the track blows one up.

Its obvious the risk is higher using one, its virtually the point of this thread. Hearing one bad story should be enough. It was for me, except ive been exposed to multiple, whether on here or at the track. Im sure alot of people who have seen this thread will agree with myself and the others who share the same opinion about N1 pumps.

Its simple. You get whatever puts your mind at ease and fits in with your budget.

Dry sumps all round for everybody.....hooray :P

Edited by r33_racer

guys loosing sleep over the pumps go and buy the reinik (edit reimax... still getting used to name change) gears. they are very highly regarded in japan and folks smarter than me have been using them in aus with great success. they may not be jumping up and down telling everyone about it, but the price is right, they have the research behind them to back up their product and that should be the end of your oil pump problems.

If you're spending 7k on a dry sump setup you're spending too much.

nitto would be my choice, crd has been exposed to all oil pumps available and i trust the opinion of a man who started modifying gtr's when we were all still playing with matchbox cars and smashing them with hammers to simulate an accident

dry sump for me is overkill for a weekend warrior

guys loosing sleep over the pumps go and buy the reinik (edit reimax... still getting used to name change) gears. they are very highly regarded in japan and folks smarter than me have been using them in aus with great success. they may not be jumping up and down telling everyone about it, but the price is right, they have the research behind them to back up their product and that should be the end of your oil pump problems.

Where are these available from?

I still think the best fix would be a splined collar/gear.

Where are these available from?

I still think the best fix would be a splined collar/gear.

Cheapest Reimax gear set i can find so far is 670 au + del. through Greenline.

http://www.greenline.jp/catalogue/bproduct...&fromlink=1

It probably is best value for $$$ if you are planning on taking your engine to pieces or in the build stage.

Edited by Alf
Lookin forward to these new gears!

would they work on a stock pump? or does the stock pump not provide enough pressure?

say compared to a n1?

They can be made to suit a stock pump, but these first ones are going to be for the N1 pump.

Pump selection should be left upto the engine builder.

I to had a n1 let go on e and decided to go external pump

i have had no probles since and thrash it of limeter all day at the track and the cost was not to bad

$1000 for peterson single stage pump

$200 for mandrel for the crank

$200 for speedflow fittings

and 1 day in the gargae making a bracket for the pump

This is the way to go imo

I to had a n1 let go on e and decided to go external pump

i have had no probles since and thrash it of limeter all day at the track and the cost was not to bad

$1000 for peterson single stage pump

$200 for mandrel for the crank

$200 for speedflow fittings

and 1 day in the gargae making a bracket for the pump

This is the way to go imo

That's under valuing it a bit to say the least. Add another $600 and ur closer to the mark you woulda spent. (not saying u didnt spend that but just adding this so everyone doesn't jump to the conclusion it only costs $1400 to do a complete external oil pump setup)

Shane, are there different thickness N1 gears? I remember getting confused when I last looked at the Reimax ones

There are indeed my good friend. So what we'll have to do is the person after a set will have to specify what thickness gears they are after.

Group buy thread here - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sp...ts-t285926.html

There are indeed my good friend. So what we'll have to do is the person after a set will have to specify what thickness gears they are after.

Group buy thread here - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sp...ts-t285926.html

Cool, I'll try get my oil pump off this weekend and confirm thickness.

FWIW, here are some parts numbers that I came up with and pricing for an external oil pump kit. I only really needed to find someone to make a bracket for the pump itself, most of the parts are there minus the hosing and belt. Might be a couple of extra fittings required depending on where / how you wanted to mount it.

post-20486-1251791626_thumb.jpg

Some of the prices may have changed since I did it (about 4 months ago)

FWIW, here are some parts numbers that I came up with and pricing for an external oil pump kit. I only really needed to find someone to make a bracket for the pump itself, most of the parts are there minus the hosing and belt. Might be a couple of extra fittings required depending on where / how you wanted to mount it.

post-20486-1251791626_thumb.jpg

Some of the prices may have changed since I did it (about 4 months ago)

JWAuto are doing CNC brackets...their work is incredible...the same CNC machinist 888 Racing use. Top shelf stuff. They are doing the brackets in a kit only though...im doing a group buy on them as soon as they are ready. I saw one of their VL CNC'd rocker covers to suit single cam engines running roller rockers...porno! Ill see if i can get a pic.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
    • What ECU are you running? This is probably the biggest question. If it's a PowerFC, I'd probably change the ECU and get something newer that will handle the injectors in a nicer way.
×
×
  • Create New...