Jump to content
SAU Community

Diy Bov

Ninja gts25t

By Ninja gts25t,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Ninja gts25t Community Regular

Ninja gts25t

Posted
Posted

Is it better to block it off at the base of the intake hose or at the end of the recirculation pipe?

and if the recirculation pipe is the way to go were should i Mount/hide/place it so it dosnt look in the way or stupid?

cheers :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284525-diy-bov/
Share on other sites
daisu Mentor

daisu

Posted
Posted

Step 1, undo rubber recirc pipe and remove from BOV.

Step 2, insert plastic softdrink bottle lid

Step 3, reconnect rubber recirc pipe to BOV.

Or if you don't like that, remove the BOV, trace and cut out a piece of sheet tin, reinstall BOV with sheet tin sandwiched underneath it.

Both methods look factory and undetectable without tools.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284525-diy-bov/#findComment-4786501
Share on other sites
mosquitocoils Veteran

mosquitocoils

Posted
Posted

If I were to cut out a metal 'gasket' like you described Luke, but then drilled a few small holes in it, would that essentially allow for flutter at low RPM, but it would still dump properly when boosting? I remember being told this by several people, and saw it on the net somewhere ages ago but can't for the life of me find any information about it now.

Quite keen to do this actually.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284525-diy-bov/#findComment-4786776
Share on other sites
Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted
If I were to cut out a metal 'gasket' like you described Luke, but then drilled a few small holes in it, would that essentially allow for flutter at low RPM, but it would still dump properly when boosting? I remember being told this by several people, and saw it on the net somewhere ages ago but can't for the life of me find any information about it now.

Quite keen to do this actually.

No, you're essentially disabling the BOV by doing there, there's no way for air to be released from the cross over pipe back into the intake side of the turbo.

If you want that low RPM flutter but still a BOV that works, go get an aftermarket plumb back bov and tighten it till it flutters at low rpm but still releases pressure at higher rpms.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284525-diy-bov/#findComment-4786914
Share on other sites
JAS-25T Grand Master

JAS-25T

Posted
Posted
Ive searched heaps but am still unsure/confused,

Can someone please clarify for me the pros/ cons of blocking that tiny little 5mm hole with a flush screw on the inside base of the stock r33 (rb25det) BOV

Thanks :)

That hole is there to aid smooth transition from boost to vaccum and vice versa. i.e. smoother transition between acceleration and deceliration. When blocked, the transition is a bit harsher.

Thanks for the info guys... is there a way of modifying the stock BOV spring to increase tension? Yes I'm being incredibly tight-arsed hahah

I've heard of people squashing the top of the BOV to increase the resitance of the spring.....but it's far from perfect.

The piece of material (more commonly steel or alloy) cut to shape and sandwiched bewteen the BOV and the intake pipe flange would be the most suitable and most effective sollution. blocking it fully will cause deceleration/idle issues with any AFM engine..........of which the RB is one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284525-diy-bov/#findComment-4787531
Share on other sites
GT-RZ Community Regular

GT-RZ

Posted
Posted
I tore up a beer can and stuck a piece under the BOV on mine with a bit of gasket goo, easy done.

Best way to block the stock BOV imo... beer can, coke can whatever you like... trace it out then cut it out with scissors and a hole punch and bolt it back up. perfect.

I wouldn't bother with the holes in it though. have the BOV or don't have it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284525-diy-bov/#findComment-4791548
Share on other sites
mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted
Thanks for the info guys... is there a way of modifying the stock BOV spring to increase tension? Yes I'm being incredibly tight-arsed hahah
That hole is there to aid smooth transition from boost to vaccum and vice versa. i.e. smoother transition between acceleration and deceliration. When blocked, the transition is a bit harsher.

I've heard of people squashing the top of the BOV to increase the resitance of the spring.....but it's far from perfect.

The piece of material (more commonly steel or alloy) cut to shape and sandwiched bewteen the BOV and the intake pipe flange would be the most suitable and most effective sollution. blocking it fully will cause deceleration/idle issues with any AFM engine..........of which the RB is one.

*sheepishly puts up hand

i did that. combined with putting a screw into the hole that jase also mentioned you got a bit of a flutter when lifting off from light throttle. but it was only like half a flutter. it was sort of a FFFT FFFT FSSSSSHH. so it fluttered once or twice then just dumped as normal. if you do decide to squash it in, you sit a socket on it (i think about a 21mm is about the right size) and then give it a few gentle yet firm hits. be warned that you can squash it too much. it is best to measure the height of the hat before you start so that after each hit you know how much you have squashed it. you only need to squash it a few mm.

other than that, if you want the full hektic flutters then you need to go aftermarket bov.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284525-diy-bov/#findComment-4792023
Share on other sites
daisu Mentor

daisu

Posted
Posted
The best way as said is to stick a gasket of whatever coke can in between and you can leave the other hoses running on it to make it look stock, stalling wont be to bad just the only problem is if u for example take off in gear one den dont shift and dump the clutch itll stall but adjusting driving style can elimnate the stalling or raise your idle by a couple of 100 revs

Mine has never stalled with the BOV blocked off.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284525-diy-bov/#findComment-4792640
Share on other sites
boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

Posted
Posted

The best way as said is to stick a gasket of whatever coke can in between and you can leave the other hoses running on it to make it look stock, stalling wont be to bad just the only problem is if u for example take off in gear one den dont shift and dump the clutch itll stall but adjusting driving style can elimnate the stalling or raise your idle by a couple of 100 revs

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284525-diy-bov/#findComment-4792555
Share on other sites
RBwhatever Veteran

RBwhatever

Posted
Posted
Thanks for the info guys... is there a way of modifying the stock BOV spring to increase tension? Yes I'm being incredibly tight-arsed hahah

I have one of these, i squashed it in the vice and concaved he top in. Flutters on light throttle back off. I got sick of it and took it off. I'm willing to give it you for the price of postage :P :P PM me if you want it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284525-diy-bov/#findComment-4793684
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...