Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Why 400kw?

Why not 350kw and lighten the car a little. Cheaper, everything lasts longer and still more power you will ever need on the street... Unless your racing!

Then 400kw costs you double... ha ha!

R3C

PPG Dog box

Diffs

etc.. etc..

How fast do you want to spend???

20K...lol

If i charged 20K for a 400KW engine id either be walking around with a stocking on my head or sipping Pina Colada's in the Bahamas.

I'm actually in the Bahammas right now (working- sorta)... You drink RUM here man! not penis-colada's ha ha ha

J.

So a $10k build won't be able to see over 400rwkw?

I need that sort of power in my daily driven GTR. You know, to overtake and stuff.

What do you need to overtake? Drag cars? I have 300 awkw and that's plenty for a daily - wouldn't really want anymore. Response is so much more important in daily city/suburban driving than is top-end power.

What do you need to overtake? Drag cars? I have 300 awkw and that's plenty for a daily - wouldn't really want anymore. Response is so much more important in daily city/suburban driving than is top-end power.

I was only kidding. I have (had until the turbo blew) circa that power in my car also. It felt about right for the car.

Why 400kw?

Why not 350kw and lighten the car a little. Cheaper, everything lasts longer and still more power you will ever need on the street... Unless your racing!

Then 400kw costs you double... ha ha!

R3C

PPG Dog box

Diffs

etc.. etc..

How fast do you want to spend???

i got all that for sale if he wants to spend... haha

very nice... yeh well im up around 14k with tune and build lol Thats NOT with the internals still internals need to be done but then thats it.Another 6k and i should be happy BUt im not going to stroke it.. i wonder how much max healthy boost i can give it with out the stroker kit

I got -5's, forged 2.6, 1.6 Head Gasket. It sucks balls for the street. Lacklusture response. A 2.8 (Like Gav's) would be awsome.

I am running 363RWKW @24PSI on pump 98. There is a bit more to play with on my setup but leaving it for now.

Turbos will go higher on PSI. Get your dyno to tune and boost till you start to see diminishing returns, i.e. your turbos stop making more kw at a cetain psi (which normally varies between engine setups).

Edited by im late
wouldnt a 1.6mm headgasket lower the comp ratio a fair bit hence your lack of low down power/torque?

Yes you are right. But I have a friend over here in Perth that has -5's with a stock thickness gasket and there is only a small response improvement.

I also have compression surge issues every now and then.

But yes a 1mm gasket would be ideal for moderate boost levels.

This question has been discussed over and over again on SAU.

The -7's will spool up quicker than the -5's. The -5's will always make more top end power and overall power over the -7's.

Yeah I understand that. Your post just made me rethink how laggy I would find the -5s.

That is a good thread on that topic:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/7-...7s+vs&st=30

I guess going from 2530s I will find the -5s quite acceptable. -5s it is!

ummmm 2530 = -5's... pritty much the same turbos, just different brand (if anything, the 2530 would be better than the -5's)

and tho its been said too many times, -9's are better than -7's

What does "better" mean?

What does "better" mean?

Better means same or better response, ability to keep making power further and more of it too, ability to run a much wider range of boost levels and still have it in it's efficiency range and net good results, less heat generated so healthier on the engine. The list goes on and on. It's ok if a car already has -7 turbos but u'd have to be crazy to buy them now when -9's are available.

Edited by bradsm87
What does "better" mean?

better = lots of things... but more importantly, different things to different people... there is already plent of info on SAU about these things if you would like use the handy search button

----------------------------------

endless responce and power information : click me

whole thread about responsive turbos : also click me

for those wanting higher HP twins : click me too

or 8 pages on this exact topic?? : rarara 8 whole pages!!!

----------------------------------

the real question is what do you want from your car??

then the guidelines are:

HKS better than Garret "equivalent"

HKS more expensive than Garret "equivalent"

-7/N1 > -9/GT-SS > -5/2530 > -10/GT-RS ... tho your probably better of getting a single than the -10/GT-RS for a 2.6

more responce >>>> more top end power

(just note, im not using > as "greter/less than" unless just showing size progression)

edit: should also give this the respect it deserves : clickety

Edited by Fishpaste~
  • Like 1
better = lots of things... but more importantly, different things to different people... there is already plent of info on SAU about these things if you would like use the handy search button

----------------------------------

endless responce and power information : click me

whole thread about responsive turbos : also click me

for those wanting higher HP twins : click me too

or 8 pages on this exact topic?? : rarara 8 whole pages!!!

----------------------------------

the real question is what do you want from your car??

then the guidelines are:

HKS better than Garret "equivalent"

HKS more expensive than Garret "equivalent"

-7/N1 > -9/GT-SS > -5/2530 > -10/GT-RS ... tho your probably better of getting a single than the -10/GT-RS for a 2.6

more responce >>>> more top end power

(just note, im not using > as "greter/less than" unless just showing size progression)

edit: should also give this the respect it deserves : clickety

The flaw in that is the -7 doesn't have more response than the -9.

i m usin -5's on my r32 gtr, still 2.6L but forged.. makin 340awkw.. tuned it for response.. i get on full boost at 4000rpm (1.5 bar). but at abt 3000prm, i still get abt 1 bar of boost.. its not too laggy imo. if i sacrifice response, i hit 350+awkw on the dyno. ;)

Whether or not you can 'justify' a 20k build no one really cares, nor if it overcomes the value of your car or not.

The point is its piss easy to spend 20k having your engine rebuilt, turbos and fuel system and all supporting mods supplied and installed, tuned etc etc etc.

Ok yeah maybe some people like Dirt laugh at a 20k build for an engine, but seriously to have to this work done by someone for 20k isnt that funny.

Dirt did you install the engine yourself? I think the labour costs are being forgotten about here.

Im guessing GTAAH, youre having the work done by a shop or someone?

YEs labour is being done by someone.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...