Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

BTW, I picked up yet another set of wheels from Yahoo japan. I know what you guys are thinking, but I just love this JDM stuff!

The obligatory pictorial:

img0184aa.jpg

img0189h.jpg

img0186i.jpg

img0193cq.jpg

img0199zz.jpg

img0196l.jpg

Specs:

Fabulous Expand Racing R, Forged, high quality, brand new

19"X10.5" +22 offset; same as my previous Rays CE28Ns

Mega lip and plenty of 'bling' 'bling'

No blow off valve. The key is stealth. You will be surprised how quiet the engine/exhaust sound is at idle, almost stock. When you rev it high, it howls much like the Mines R34 car.

Tangomatt, i love everything about your build so far...but im just not seeing the excitement in these rims.

couldn't agree more.. :) but i suppose it might all fall into place when on the car..

as for seeing it in action, bring it to a deca thats no doubt the safest place to give it a flogging

Just read through your build and Im crushed lol I so want to build up my car like this but yeah dont have the available funds yet, but well done on it great to see the commitment you put in and stuck through it and got it finished its unreal the car. PS you really love your rims lol.

Very sweet car. <-- understatement of the year...

I will say one thing however - you have way too much $$ for your own good... :rofl2:

If you don't mind me asking, how much has this all cost you (roughly)?

Edited by gwilkinson34
If you don't mind me asking, how much has this all cost you (roughly)?

Nobody will ever answer that question.

Usually because all the recepits have been thrown out. This way your not tempted to add them up and weigh the dollars spent with the fun you get from the car. And of course no reciepts means it technicaly cost nothing!

I honestly don't know exactly how much has been spent on this project as I have bought and sold parts along the way.

One thing I know for sure is that there are many other builds in this forum that cost much more than mine. :down:

I honestly don't know exactly how much has been spent on this project as I have bought and sold parts along the way.

One thing I know for sure is that there are many other builds in this forum that cost much more than mine. :D

Yeah!? Really!? Like who!? Tangomatt, we all know you're being modest. :)

Edited by AtomicBomberMan
  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all,

Just a quick update on the suspension upgrade with Racepace customised Tein RS setup.

The Tein RS, aka 'Circuit Master; Super Racing Spec', has been out of production since 2006-2007. They were the top of the line in the Tein catalogue for production cars at that time. In some ways, I feel that the materials used and the way it was manufactured surpass what's commonly available today, even the premium priced shocks.

Details of the RS are listed below (sourced from US based my.is forum in 2002)

MATERIALS AND FACTS:

DAMPING MECHANISM:

45mm diameter pistons

Double shim stacks (near unlimited tunability with knowledge of shim valves)

Two 'special form' adjustment needles

SHOCK/RESERVOIR BODY:

Monotube shock body

53mm outer diameter

Aluminum alloy (A7050) seamless tube, CNC'ed, green (hard?) anodized

Inner tolerances:

diameter: ±5µm

roughness: ±1.6µm

Reservoir body interior is PTFE (Teflon) coated

CNC'ed aluminum alloy eyelet, Tein rubber bushing, steel pivot

SHOCK SHAFT:

14mm diameter

Chromoly (SCM435) steel, Ti-N coating

SHAFT SEAL/GUIDE:

WRC spec

PILLOWBALL MOUNT:

Aluminum alloy, CNC'ed, powdercoated (gold)

SPRINGS:

Main and helper

Steel, ground and tapered, enameled

10K front, 10K rear

SPRING PERCHES:

Aluminum alloy, forged and machined

SETTINGS:

-34mm front, -12mm rear (easier measured as 335mm both from the center of the wheel to the fender lip, front and rear)

10 clicks rebound front

10 clicks compression front

10 clicks rebound rear

13 clicks compression rear

Out of the box, the RS will not suit my purpose of a street orientated setup in Australian conditions. So the solution Racepace derived is to employ a high quality, well engineered shock to begin with and customise the valving and spring rates.

The current spring rates are less than half of 10K front and rear. The exact rate Racepace did not divulge and so is what they did to the revalving. BUT believe me, the setup works very very well.

My initial impression, compared to the Nismo S Tunes, which is also street orientated:

- The damping is comparable, soaks up bumps and road undulations well. The rebound is quicker than the S Tunes, that the RS is less 'cushy'

- The car feels more planted and can hold its intended steering path despite mid corner bumps etc

- At very low speeds, the RS is very compliant

The only annoying thing is an annoying 'whimper' originating from the rear shocks at very minute bumps. It almost sounds like someone rubbing a wet finger on clean glassware. However, I did some research and found that this is quite common, and indicates no fault. The pillow ball mounts also transfer more road noise to the cabin.

I spent a good afternoon with Chris from Racepace. And this is how I feel as a passenger..... Well Chris test drove the car in a 'hill' run. (Chris is an excellent driver btw. He scared the sh*t out of me)

- The car feels like its on tracks and bumps do not upset the momentum.

- Car feels planted, period!

Chris comments that the RS allows him to transfer weight nicely and from the get go the setup is confidence inspiring. That is he can drive a lot quicker if I was not in the car with him. He was extremely happy with the way the RS can handle the low speed stuff equally as well as the high speed.

Overall, I am very impressed, bearing in mind that the Nismo S Tunes were very good to start with. I highly recommend it to anyone wanting a street car to go for less spring rate but good damping force.

Final thing on the agenda - increase ride height on front end and transfer case reinforcement.

PS will post pics on weekend.

Cheers

Matt

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...