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Hi Matt a great job a Nur spec built to full spec lol.

Im from africa interested in your old motor do you still have it tried to pm you ?

Let me know

Cheers

Adam

Hi shiro ryo

I don't quite understand what you may be referring to? Please elaborate.

Thanks

Matt

I don't think he understands what he is referring to either.

All RB26 R32-R34 head castings are all the same. There is certainly nothing you can identify from looking at the outside of the head.

Looking forward to seeing what you'll do to an R35 if thats what's next Matt.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Shiro Ryo

I switched the NUR engine out because I wanted increased capacity RB. Its amazing what just an extra 0.1771 L of capacity can do to transform the way the engine performs.

I sold the NUR engine as a whole with the Gold cam covers because that usually is worth more money.

I went for black cam covers to match the theme of the car - black and white.

Matt

  • 4 weeks later...

I absolutely LOVE this car.

The black and white, CF bits, Z-tune bits, V-cam, steering wheel, TE37's... EVERYTHING is perfect.

I've always wanted a Nur/Z-Tune R34, and this is probably the best example I have ever seen. I've always loved Bayside Blue, Midnight Purple and Millennium Jade, but the Black on White has changed me, or at the very least added to the list.

Thank-you. Your car is Incredible.

Chris

Hi Matt

The car that will be on the front cover of performance imports 134 is my R33 GTR time attack car you saw it at RacePace last year jack was dropping it off. This will be a great issue tuff track and street GTR's.

  • 2 weeks later...

Matt - Jason...

Will send some photos just before the magazine issue is out so that you can post some pics on here.... i hope the features look good otherwise the skyline australia peeps will hunt me down :P

Yes, my car spends more time at Racepace than my garage! I am always picking Chris's brains on how to tweak the car more for better performance.

I just got transfer case modified to allow more power to be diverted to the front wheels when power on. This supposedly gives better traction when launching and on corner exit.

I had Hicas removed as well to allow a more stable rear end when cornering at moderate to high speeds. The factory setting of Hicas gives the car a rather unstable feel to the rear end. Besides, all of Racepace circuit and targa cars have Hicas deleted.

Therefore, two more boxes ticked!

I also underwent another re-tune on the dyno and Chris discovered a minor lean spot just as the boost comes on that needed some adjustment. Just a word of advice, dyno-tuning needs to be carried out periodically as the GTR tends to get out of tune with mileage. Power at the Rear wheels was slightly down from 413 rwkw to 407 rwkw (humid day!). Boost levels slightly down, probably due to high barometric pressure.

All other systems were checked to ensure optimal operation and the car is thankfully A1.

Hmmm... just a few more thing on my list to be done.

Finally, thank you all for the continued interest and support. This thread has over 100,000 HITS!!! :thanks:

Guys, I almost forgot. I would like to buy these wheels....

post-32660-0-79954900-1300961112_thumb.jpg

Specs:

Second hand Work Meister S1 20"X10.5" in chrome and get this - Fr offset 0; Rr offset -6.

Cost: NOT cheap

Discontinued specs, rare

I did a bit of calculation and the front is going to stick out 21mm more than my TE37s and Rear by 27mm.

Couple of questions:

Would the wheels clear my AP brake calipers?

Would the inner rim clear my Tein RS?

Would the outer guard rub on the rear guard?

what are the specs of your current wheels?

how much room do you have between rim and shock at the moment?

whether the tyre rubs on the guards will depend on things like tyre width and sidewall height (how much stretch you have)... and camber

those rims come in different 'disks'... it simply means how far out the spokes are pushed towards the outside of the rims... you can have 2 wheels with the exact same width and offset but one will have the spokes pushed out further to accommodate big front brakes

brake fitting is a trial and error thing mainly... TE37's are really well designed for clearing large calipers... Work Meisters, not so much

if you can get them to fit they will look fantastic... but will be some dicking around... most importantly fitting over the brakes and not fouling on the shocks are most important... the other stuff can be worked around

EDIT: worst case scenario you maybe able to run spacers... but on a car like your I dunno about spacers... ask Chris about that

if you did buy them and then find they dont clear your brakes you certainly wouldnt have any problems selling them again

i wouldnt think clearing your struts would be an issue with that low an offset either

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