Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Was on the dyno today... and was chasing a issue.. no one noticed this...

I was puzzled so got someone else to drive the car on the dyno while i inspect the engine bay and guess what i saw?

man its times like this i love my job... i cannot stop laughing.

that is nasty. just imagine how much a restriction it must be to be able to suck itself shut. even if you put a rigid frame in it the restriction it's causing is huge. would be interesting to measure the vacuum in the intake pipe!

Want to thank you for this thread, I've just read it all and you're doing things lots if us wish we could!

All this talk of big fat 4wd's with monster snails is giving me some evil thoughts though!

Any idea where I can go to read and learn more about the particular requirements for each? Is the Toyota or Nissan a better place to start you reckon?

And your car, it has R34 Gtr diff gear in it. Yyyyyyyyucky! :)

  • 3 weeks later...

here the land cruiser 1fz and the nissan tb48 are just as popular as each other.

people like the nissan better because of the VCT, (they call them VTEK) and people like the land cruiser because when you build them they can take a massive amount of power and they are half the price of the vtek engines.

Just do exactly what you would do with a skyline except go for some big big cams and lower then 8:1 compression and get a gt45 turbo :)

R34 gtr ? damn.. can i just drop a r32 gtr diff into it?

Here is a car i tuned the other day... Starting to like Haltech more and more these days.

  • 2 weeks later...

nah the manuals are the strongest box's

I picked up a full r32 gtr rear diff today, it cost me $430 us, then a friend offered to help me go pick it up, and offered me a brand new set of tomei pro cams lash type 270s in box, 2 tomei cam gears in box and brand new 1.2 mm tomei head gasket for my old r34 diff, who was i to knock back his offer? and he actually gave me them... they are legit lol. its going on my rb30

Also when i was at the place today picking up the diff, i tripped over a Holden RB30 single cam with auto trans, i swear i had to look twice, i thought i pollymorphed into wrecking yard in sydney for a second and had to get my bearings back... WTF. and they only wanted $400 for it, it definatly came from Aus they knew what it was.

UAE is one big f**king surprise after the other i tell you, might go and pick it up next week, need to try convince the boss to use it for his drag car.

  • 1 month later...

Yes :)

Okay, i pretty much blew the GT35r, i drove it for a while when it was half gone and then it jammed and wouldnt even spin, and started spitting oil :(

This is my second GT35r on this car, they last less then 4 years, both turbos lasted 3 years each! sucks! is this normal for the BB GT series turbo's?

So i got a new list of parts to install the car, what a perfect time! do it all together!

Parts to go in motor!

Nissan Infinity Throttle Body and backing plate

Tomei adjustable cam gears x 2

Tomei 1.2mm head gasket (not needed)

Tomei 270 cams, hydro types (no springs as of yet going to try my luck the lift aint too much on them)

Bullseye 259 turbocharger

post-1240-0-93150700-1316211821_thumb.jpg

Removed plenum, did this job myself.. had no cars to tune that night

post-1240-0-25332200-1316211830_thumb.jpg

Throttle body plate welded to plazmaman plenum and nissan infinity throttle installed. its huge!!

post-1240-0-83870800-1316211837_thumb.jpg

Bye bye stock cams, we have been through alot together! Summernats, power cruise, WSID, 3 different countries, all kinds of street racing and drifting, 10.8 seconds at 135mph - time to move onto some upgrades, emissions tests not needed here!

post-1240-0-16500000-1316211848_thumb.jpg

Cams out!

post-1240-0-83751800-1316211861_thumb.jpg post-1240-0-40284900-1316211874_thumb.jpg

I decided to try my luck and find some parts to freshen up the cam train of the ol RB30DET, so i looked around, to my suprise i found some goodies to make everything back to new again! I could not believe it!!!

1x RB30DET cam belt, old stock Mitsubish diesel item, it had sooo much dust on it. (you wont find a RB25 one here but the 2530DET you can!)

1 x Timing belt tensioner

2 x cam front seals

1 x crank front seal

post-1240-0-86126000-1316212271_thumb.jpg

Total price??? 175 UAE Dirams, converted to english ?? $51.00 AUD. FIFTY 1 DOLLARS. WTF.. Nissan parts are sooo cheap here! You guys are getting ripped back home!

Also i snapped a cam cap bolt taking it out, the indians working in the shop found out, bring the big welder out and i start shitting the gear WTF?? they weld it up and put a bolt on it and remove it no problems, but finding a new bolt? i looked everywhere, called all the nissans and nothing.. then i had a silly idea to check if the nissan TB48DE cam bolts fit, and what do you know? EXACT FIT!!! but they have been changed and look stronger then the RB25 ones! and we have many of those in the spare bolts bin in the engine build room, WINNER!!!

New cams installed, and ready to put back together

post-1240-0-13783000-1316211884_thumb.jpg

Car should be running again, the turbo is a S259 bullseye, borg warner, i am after a good streetable drift setup, i hear from people with experience from this turbo that says on a cammed rb30det it should make full boost before 3000rpm and up to around 500rwhp, if so il be one happy man!

Stay tuned for more updates, might add some water meth injection also.

Anyone have any ideas what i should do with the solinoid of the VCT ? i want to remove the wires and use it for my water meth injection, can i just remove the solinoid and block it? leave it disconnected ? or connect it to ground perm?

if your not running vct just leave the solenoid in there unplugged. or a short bolt if you have one in the right thread, dont block up the oil gallery though as it feeds the front cam journal aswell as the vct

no results yet, still trying to get my hands on 5 litres of 300v competition oil before loading it up, the turbo sounds great! just like a t51r!

I know its not skyline related, but this is a car i tuned yesterday.

its a packed kit. do not have any pulleys for it.

the headers and free flowing exhaust apparently brings the boost down a little also.

we will get heads and get a pulley for it later on. depends on the customer

421rwhp on less then 20psi, car sounds great and it burns the tires pretty good =)

Got boost control issues, its not going up when i tell it to. need to investigate solinoid and hoses and fix a exhaust leak on the manifold.

is that good power for the s259 ? anyone know?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...