Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Stock- 296 x 24mm fronts

R32 GTR non vspec - scotty is very right - 296x32

R33 GTR - 324mmx30mm

taken from dba. don't know about minimums. There are some dodgy discs out there for sure. I'd say 2mm wear and its time for something fresh.

Noob.:P

You measured yours...?

guess what they are...

I checked the thickness when I put em on and before I bought em.....but next time I get a wheel off I'll check...pretty sure they are standard R33GTR...not the V-Spec!

http://nisoctt.forum...-up-information

Edited by Jetwreck

ok i lost all the info i put together and had to do it again :( LOL

same sized brake pad for all R32/R33/R34 and 350Z with the brembo's....

R32 GTR disc is 296x32mm with height of 54mm

R33/R34 GTR disc is 324mmx30mm with height of 53.8mm

350Z brembo's is 324mmx30mm with height of 49mm

Edited by WAGON_BOY

ok i lost all the info i put together and had to do it again :( LOL

same sized brake pad for all R32/R33/R34 and 350Z with the brembo's....

R32 GTR disc is 296x32mm with height of 54mm

R33/R34 GTR disc is 324mmx30mm with height of 53.8mm

350Z brembo's is 324mmx30mm with height of 49mm

http://www.project-mu.co.jp/e/files/SCR_LIST.htm

P.S. Alex(PN-Mad) now has me thinking....I am really going to have to take off my wheels and check the rotor thickness...not admitting defeat yetph34r.gif!

ok i lost all the info i put together and had to do it again :( LOL

same sized brake pad for all R32/R33/R34 and 350Z with the brembo's....

R32 GTR disc is 296x32mm with height of 54mm

R33/R34 GTR disc is 324mmx30mm with height of 53.8mm

350Z brembo's is 324mmx30mm with height of 49mm

I don't get what the concern with brake pad's is .....you have ????? brakes on your car.....ring a brake place tell em I have ????? brakes and what pads do you have to suit!

http://www.project-m...es/SCR_LIST.htm

P.S. Alex(PN-Mad) now has me thinking....I am really going to have to take off one of my wheels and check the rotor thickness...not admitting defeat yetph34r.gif!

meh... 2mm isn't too much to worry about anyway...

war have been fought over less...:pirate:

lol :teehee:

Let me summarise for wagon boy

when upgrading brakes you can do the following-

1)better quality original size pads and rotors

2)commercial big brake kit for G35/Z33

3)Z34 Akenbo kit ex US

4)r32 GTR conversion / possible upgrade to 324mm

5) z33 Brembo conversion

6) R33/34 Brembo conversion

between everyone here, all those have been done. std wheels won't fit- you need aftermarket.

most people worry about the fronts but not the backs. All will cost different $ depending on what you decide.

std wheels won't fit- you need aftermarket.

ive got the AXIS 18" rims im sure they will clear the callipers or is it the offset thats wrong???

cos i have a custom 324mm disc with RX7 S6 4spot callipers on my 808 wagon and i run a 16" rim.

Offset- the side of the 4 pot will hit the spokes- the diameter of the wheel is plenty big enough.

easist way to check - put a wheel on a z33 with Brembos or a R3* with Sumitomos

We know arx rims don't fit, my s2 17's dont fit - that being said, I don't know if ppl have tried the axis rim.

Edited by PN-Mad

meh... 2mm isn't too much to worry about anyway...

war have been fought over less...:pirate:

lol :teehee:

Let me summarise for wagon boy

when upgrading brakes you can do the following-

1)better quality original size pads and rotors

2)commercial big brake kit for G35/Z33

3)Z34 Akenbo kit ex US

4)r32 GTR conversion / possible upgrade to 324mm

5) z33 Brembo conversion

6) R33/34 Brembo conversion

between everyone here, all those have been done. std wheels won't fit- you need aftermarket.

most people worry about the fronts but not the backs. All will cost different $ depending on what you decide.

use the AP big break kit for a 350z nuff said

Ap are up there as one of the best they make break kis for F1 for fs sake

Why anyone would need massive kits like those on the street I have no idea, best to keep the rotating weight down. I can get abs to kick in with my little toe with just 295mm disks.

Good slotted rotors and a good set of pads is what you want, braided lines will improve the feel. I got my r32 callipers for $300, the full set.

meh... 2mm isn't too much to worry about anyway...

war have been fought over less...:pirate:

lol :teehee:

Let me summarise for wagon boy

when upgrading brakes you can do the following-

1)better quality original size pads and rotors

2)commercial big brake kit for G35/Z33

3)Z34 Akenbo kit ex US

4)r32 GTR conversion / possible upgrade to 324mm

5) z33 Brembo conversion

6) R33/34 Brembo conversion

between everyone here, all those have been done. std wheels won't fit- you need aftermarket.

most people worry about the fronts but not the backs. All will cost different $ depending on what you decide.

to be honest, i went with number 10] got some slotted rotors, and good qfm pads.

mine stops fine. and l can still get ABS on fine.

my theory is, if i change the brakes, and know that I can start braking alot later to stop, i'll over calculate and put it into a wall lol.

where as now, i know i have to stop a little early - i concentrate more.

+ me and scott were discussing this, and i rarely rely on breaks anyway

by no means sell the brembo's.. you already have most of the stuff(or the more important anyway) might as well just do it.

however, i honestly do think that the BC's and Sway bars are more important - but thats me, i rarely rely on the brakes, and when i do. they stop fine. the single piston is big enough.

Scott you never stop lol

to be honest, i went with number 10] got some slotted rotors, and good qfm pads.

mine stops fine. and l can still get ABS on fine.

my theory is, if i change the brakes, and know that I can start braking alot later to stop, i'll over calculate and put it into a wall lol.

where as now, i know i have to stop a little early - i concentrate more.

+ me and scott were discussing this, and i rarely rely on breaks anyway

The way your car is lowered you've probably lost the ability to stop it anyway :P

On a serious note with the standard callipers and rotors + only Nismo pad's I found the brakes pretty good! The R32 GTR Calliper and rotor set up was definitely better.....the Brembo's were better again....have yet to test braided lines!!

The way your car is lowered you've probably lost the ability to stop it anyway :P

On a serious note with the standard callipers and rotors + only Nismo pad's I found the brakes pretty good! The R32 GTR Calliper and rotor set up was definitely better.....the Brembo's were better again....have yet to test braided lines!!

at least i dont blow things up lol. oh wait..

car stops fine craig. oh i gotta give you a call.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...