Jump to content
SAU Community

Aftermarket Alloy Radiator

l0WRB

By l0WRB,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

turael Enthusiast

turael

Posted
Posted

ahhh complicated subject, as in same cases earthing the radiator will cause more problems than it will solve. i know there was a big thread on this on NS, perhaps have a search on there.

it's a good idea to do it correctly though as i've heard of rads 'disappearing' in a few months after being installed!

geraus Mentor

geraus

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys , I installed my ISC radiator! and it was pretty easy! what u need to do is take off your Fan aswell and put in the raidatoir with the fan shroud with the fan off at the same time! theres alot of fiddling around! Also if you got a stock air box.. the stock air thingy wont fit bcos of the metal on the side is a bit high.

When i installed mine. I didnt do any earthing.. whats the earthing for??

Edited by geraus
turael Enthusiast

turael

Posted
Posted

its to prevent electrolysis (corrosion). if you don't do it right, your rad can literally disappear into the coolant.

here's the thread with all the info.

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=371472

ps. never use tectaloy, use nulon longlife (or a genuine nissan/toyota/subaru coolant). i had a 2jz head eaten by tectaloy...

Wacky Dee Veteran

Wacky Dee

Posted
Posted

hmmm fark ... changed to a 40mm aluminium radiator recently .. never knew about this stray currents stuff. Oh well at least I did use a Nulon coolant flush product and rinsed like 5 times with tap water before putting new coolant in.. so atleast hopefully I don't need to worry about old coolant reacting with the new Nulon coolant.

But I never did check for stray currents .. on NS the info posted says to run the engine to operating temps with radiator cap off and then chuck in the mutlimeter probe. But how the hell do you run it to operating temps without coolant coming out of radiator cap opening .. unpossible! Anyway, time to check for stray currents methinks..

l0WRB Mentor

l0WRB

Posted
  • Author
Posted
hmmm fark ... changed to a 40mm aluminium radiator recently .. never knew about this stray currents stuff. Oh well at least I did use a Nulon coolant flush product and rinsed like 5 times with tap water before putting new coolant in.. so atleast hopefully I don't need to worry about old coolant reacting with the new Nulon coolant.

But I never did check for stray currents .. on NS the info posted says to run the engine to operating temps with radiator cap off and then chuck in the mutlimeter probe. But how the hell do you run it to operating temps without coolant coming out of radiator cap opening .. unpossible! Anyway, time to check for stray currents methinks..

u can run the car up to operating temp with no radiator cap on its not pressurised or however u spell it lol.. thats how u get air pockets out etc..

warps Mentor

warps

Posted
Posted
. But how the hell do you run it to operating temps without coolant coming out of radiator cap opening .. unpossible.

You can run it up to temperature with the cap off, and you shouldn't lose any coolant. It's just that with a sealed system it builds up pressure when it warms up. This will cause it to spit water out when you open the cap.

A good way to tell if your radiator is being effected by electrolysis is to check the colour of the alloy inside the rad. If it's going black, then it is corroding and you need to do something about it.

Another trap is if your battery is in the boot. You need to run your earth cable (fat) all the way to the front firewall. Bolt the cable to the firewall, and then run another fat earth strap from the same bolt (on the engine side) to your engine block. This means that most of the current will run through the battery earth lead, rather than the car's chassis, which can cause stray currents through your radiator.

turael Enthusiast

turael

Posted
Posted
Which tectaloy? They make more than one coolant.

It was the tectaloy 90 or whatever. I'm pretty sure any of their green stuff will be bad, regardless i'll never touch the stuff again. why take the risk when other coolant is just a touch more expensive.

Wacky Dee Veteran

Wacky Dee

Posted
Posted

if you read the NS site ..apparently earthing the rad can make the stray currents worse .. Weird shit. I'm getting a multimeter tommorow with milivolt measurements ($30 at jaycar) and I'll see what comes up .. Apparently anything more than 50mV in the coolant is BAAAAD.

08r3308 Mentor

08r3308

Posted
Posted

instructions in mspec i got were that it can kill a rad in few days if not earthed, well for the stray current to stuff it up.

If you use a concentrate, then you should be using either demineralised water. mineral content in tap water will conduct electricity better and cause a higher rate of corrosion. Off the shelf premixes can sometimes contain tap water so may have a higher mineral content as well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...