Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i phone doesnt do close ups lol.

crank is ok ish... number 2 is the only bearing thats damaged.. number one shows significant wear also. measured it up and number 2 on the crank is only ever so slightly under the minimum tolerance. soooo.. gonna get it reground 10tho undersize and go with the larger acl Race bearings, new mains, new oil pump and then re assy.

pistons, rods, rings, bores all look like they just rolled out of nissan. not sure if i should bother with going forgies. no det marks, no nothing on the pistons.

If you can pull it all out yourself then I would save the $1k for forgies, almost all dead motors are oil problems. Go baffled sump, oil pump, bearings, crank collar (or is this fixed with neo motors?)

If you kill it via pistons then it is almost certainly det related which means tuning and you said this is sweet.

sre they 86.5's? come with rings and pins?

if so how much again?

Click the link in my signature.... comes with everything, new in the box for $1250 yes they are 86.5mm.

Got a crank aswell but doesn't look like you need it.

rods are fatter.

with the piston the crown is hollowed out with two large holes allowing oil to be squired up into them, the rods have a tiny oil hole facing the crown, along with the piston bore squirter. the ring lands are fatter on the neo's and as for weight the neo piston and rod even tho it has more material is slightly lighter then non neo.

Good to see a direct comparison and the photos are great, i am hoping i don't have to see the insides of my engine for quite a while yet :thumbsup:

Since you've done so much damage, why don't you just get another neo from a wrecker and go again. It only died because your oil was on the track. I think a neo with a good sump will last for ages. 90% of rb's die from oil starvation of some description, or a bad tune. Don't see too many die from being pushed too far

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
    • Yes then it will turn on but I want the car features to work  
    • My thought is if you were just moving it forward and the upstream geometry remained the same, then no difference at all. But because the current one has the filter direct into the AFM inlet, you effectively have the best chance of a completely symmetric air flow profile upstream, and in, the AFM, whilst the aftermarket inlet thingo has a (small, to be sure) bend between the filter and the AFM. That would bias the flow to the outside of the bend (downstream of the bend) which might well reduce the size of the signal seen by the AFM, for the same total flow rate. Having said that: If you're proposing to make your inlet look like a hybrid of your existing one and the aftermarket one, such that there is no bend where the filter is clamped on... then I say it will be just fine. If there is going to be such a bend, then, if you can align the insertion of the AFM blade such that it is at right angles to the plane of the bend, then there is a better than even chance that the centreline velocity where the blade is will remain more or less the same, and the velocity will just be a little faster to the outside of that, and just a little slower to the inside. **This is not professional investment advice and you should consult a suitably qualified ouija board, tea leaves or the intestines of a goat for more accurate prognostication.
    • Hi Tao, Thanks for your reply.  It's been a while and I managed to get the valve stem seals replaced with the head on the car.  Unfortunately this didn't solve my issue, the car still smokes a lot after idling (to be honest during idle you can see a bit of blue smoke from the exhaust), same after deceleration. I will try disconnecting the valve cover breathers, do I leave the PCV valve in? By engine oil drain pipe, do you mean the turbo oil drain?
    • What about if you just give it direct 12v and earth?
×
×
  • Create New...