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I've got a 95 R33 GTR with the following mods already:

PowerFC

700cc injectors

Nismo fuel pump

Greddy Boost Controller

Kakimoto full exhaust

Twin plate clutch

PPG gearbox

Big Trust intercooler

18x10's with semi slick

Blistein shocks with King Low Springs

Slotted Rotors

Car is currently tuned at 258rwkw on 15.8psi.

I'm about to dive into more power upgrades in the form of:

Garrett 2860R-5's

new turbo gaskets

braided oil and water lines

Tomei adjustable cam gears

Oil change

Tune

But my question is, what else should I be looking at for some semi -serious track work?

I was thinking:

Hi-Octane sump extention with trapdoor and modified pickup,

remote oil filter with cooler, temp and pressure gauges

Stainless steel braided brake lines

Ferrodo 2500 pads

My budget is $8k at this stage

Does anyone else have any suggestions or reccomendations for some power upgrades and reliability mods?

Any ideas appreciated.

Cheers,

Nigel

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Be prepared for a motor rebuild - i am yet to see a stock motor last, longest was i think 2.5years/7-8 days per year.

So in effect double your budget. Especially if you make the 350-380rwkw that -5's will do easily.

If you can't afford a rebuild, then imo don't think about getting semi serious with track work and those turbos.

Fuel surge tank isn't required, not one of the Racepace cars i know of that go around and around the circuit bush use anything other than intank.

this is with semi's on and some very serious times/power.

Also keep the stock water/oil lines. No need to change them and when things get super hot - braided lines sometimes are not the best

cool.

Would prefer to keep in-tank anyway, less likely to get stickered.

As for a motor rebuild, I am aware they blow up, but I am planning on upgrading to a fully built engine in the future. Any other suggestions for reliability/power on the street also?

My suggestions:

Tomei dumps on the -5's.

New-style HKS front pipe (2x 70mm to 90mm).

Radiator cooling panel if you don't already have one.

Nismo intank pump. (best intank you can get)

Maybe re-do all the clamps on the I/C piping.

N1 cooling ducts.

Straight pipe while at the track.

Good oil pump or strengthened oil pump gear.

Ross/Ati harmonic balancer to save the pump.

N1 water pump or a bigger water pump pulley to drive it 5% slower so it doesn't cavitate at high rpm at the track.

Mine's cam cover baffles (performance metalcraft here in aus make them as well).

Have a look at UAS's front air brake deflectors, I run them on my R32 GTR so brake fluid boiling is less a risk (very expensive though).

why braided oil and water lines, I thought the factory ones were pretty good?

Go for a larger radiator with heat exchanger built into the side tank. Atleast twin pass. Make sure you have a good catch can and engine breathing setup as you will no doubt be redecorating your engine bay with brown :)

thanks for the suggestions guys!

i reckon i'll look into:

air deflector for the top of the radiator

air diversion plates for the castor rods

braided brake lines and new pads

baffled sump

oil cooler

making up a straight pipe for the track days

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