Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

for a cheap cheap job you could just drill the hole for the tensioner new timing belt, gaskets etc, and whack it all together

Where exactly does one drill the hole ?

And do you use the same tensioner and RB25 timingbelt ?

Edited by Axis-D
  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ive heard a Laruel/Cefiro crossmember will bolt in(R32) by doing this no modification is required to the engine mounts. Is this true ???

all the rb blocks have the same engine mounting points, so any rb will fit any rb engined car, the only difference is the heigth of the block, rb30 being 38mm taller than 25 and 26 (and 20??)

I think it fits r33 ok. i have seen a few done that dont appear to have any bonnet mods.

On my 32 i peeled back the insulation under the bonnet and cut out a small section of the bracing and put the insulation back on. i think i have about 5mm clearance to teh cam pulley cover.

  • 1 month later...

Hey guys. here is an update on the build.

1. I decided to bore it and get new pistons - Precision branded. They aren't forged, but a full set of 6 cost me $250. Hastings rings.

2. The Block has been decked

3. All of the exhaust valve guides where cracked, but they simply ground them right back, and countersunk them for a carbon trap.

4. RB26 oil pump was stuffed. Getting another.

5. Did the internal VCT oil feed mod.

6. Head is being shaved to raise the compression to 8.6:1.

7. no balancing.. They built it before I could give them to go ahead. Hoping it should be ok though.

8. Crank Collar Fitted.

Will have the engine in about 3 days.

1. i just used the Flywheel from my 25 on the 30, make sure you check the spiggot bush in the crank make sure it suits the 25 gearbox

2. power steering belt is different on the 30 (v belt)

Hey guys. here is an update on the build.

1. I decided to bore it and get new pistons - Precision branded. They aren't forged, but a full set of 6 cost me $250. Hastings rings.

2. The Block has been decked

3. All of the exhaust valve guides where cracked, but they simply ground them right back, and countersunk them for a carbon trap.

4. RB26 oil pump was stuffed. Getting another.

5. Did the internal VCT oil feed mod.

6. Head is being shaved to raise the compression to 8.6:1.

7. no balancing.. They built it before I could give them to go ahead. Hoping it should be ok though.

8. Crank Collar Fitted.

Will have the engine in about 3 days.

whos doing the the block/engine work as im thinking of doing the same also how much will the finished bottom end cost?

  • 2 weeks later...
Hey guys. here is an update on the build.

1. I decided to bore it and get new pistons - Precision branded. They aren't forged, but a full set of 6 cost me $250. Hastings rings.

2. The Block has been decked

3. All of the exhaust valve guides where cracked, but they simply ground them right back, and countersunk them for a carbon trap.

4. RB26 oil pump was stuffed. Getting another.

5. Did the internal VCT oil feed mod.

6. Head is being shaved to raise the compression to 8.6:1.

7. no balancing.. They built it before I could give them to go ahead. Hoping it should be ok though.

8. Crank Collar Fitted.

Will have the engine in about 3 days.

can i ask where you got the pistons from?

Im picking up a 30 next weekend :)

http://www.precisionintl.com/HTML/locations.html

they sell direct or any repco, auto1 or autobarn can get them...they are only cast factory replacments. They do a "hypatec" or forged piston for rb30et only, so the cast ones are the only real option for a hybrid....unless you want 7:1 comp

http://www.precisionintl.com/HTML/locations.html

they sell direct or any repco, auto1 or autobarn can get them...they are only cast factory replacments. They do a "hypatec" or forged piston for rb30et only, so the cast ones are the only real option for a hybrid....unless you want 7:1 comp

Cool, its for a rb30et only anyway.

Will give them a call tomorrow

Thanks

Rob

Edited by Dj laBBy
http://www.precisionintl.com/HTML/locations.html

they sell direct or any repco, auto1 or autobarn can get them...they are only cast factory replacments. They do a "hypatec" or forged piston for rb30et only, so the cast ones are the only real option for a hybrid....unless you want 7:1 comp

Precision make a forged RB30DET one as well (Or did when I looked it all up about 6 months ago) I had pricing for them.

im using the same pistons (endurotech i think they are called, made by Precision) in my 26/30, they were cheap and due to the lip on the bores i needed to go .20 oversize anyway and forgies were alot more, and then you need rods as well, so i said for $200ish they are worth it.

If it blows up who cares :O

Mines running 22psi with a gt3076r and is fine (though cam timing is not right so lacking power).

I've just put together a second 26/30 right now with another set and going to be running a hks t04z on it and push it pretty hard and see what it can do.

im using the same pistons (endurotech i think they are called, made by Precision) in my 26/30, they were cheap and due to the lip on the bores i needed to go .20 oversize anyway and forgies were alot more, and then you need rods as well, so i said for $200ish they are worth it.

If it blows up who cares :O

Mines running 22psi with a gt3076r and is fine (though cam timing is not right so lacking power).

I've just put together a second 26/30 right now with another set and going to be running a hks t04z on it and push it pretty hard and see what it can do.

I like the way you work...

Sounds a bit like mine, except I didn't even rebuild it... Just need to change a few things, then push its limits...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...