Jump to content
SAU Community

Better Colour Resale Value for R34 GTR  

155 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

Looking at getting a 34 GTR and want to ensure I can sell it easier in the future. So between white, black and blue, which do you think has a better resale value and most of interest in Aus? Also why do you think so?

Please vote if you can and discuss. Thanks a lot for your input.

Here are 3 of the colours with similar setups.

post-5116-1256950028_thumb.jpgpost-5116-1256950038_thumb.jpgpost-5116-1256950266_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294287-poll-best-r34-gtr-colour/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well I voted for 1 of them which is the only option; but it's a close call between Pearl Black & Bayside Blue imho.

Both are less common than white.

Midnight Purple III is less common still but very popular.

Yellow is not so popular except to Shell.

Red seems to be love or hate.

Verdict:- White is slightly less in resale value; by hey, if it's kept in great cond. you'd be fool to knock it back (if there's short supply at the time).

Advantage of Black:- You can paint the front splitter Pearl Black to colour-code.

Disadvantage of Black:- Swirl marks will show up more than any other colour, so one needs to procedurally polish them out.

Pretty much all the GT-R's colour options are great (llok at the entire list its purely awesome).

I'm a little biased because I have a black R34 myself but Bayside Blue is an awesome colour and when people picture an R34 GT-R they usually picture it in blue, a pretty cult colour.

At the end of the day an R34 GT-R is going to be awesome anyway!

I personally am leaning towards the blue too but the black looks badass if done well. My wifes uncle has a Nur Spec II in the green and its ok. He used to have an older bayside blue and that was nicer.

Here is another question for you guys;

Standard late model 34 in original spec with low kms (say 20,000kms)

or

99/2000 with a bunch of mods like the one above with mid to high kms around 70,000kms to 80,000kms.

Which would you rather buy??

I personally am leaning towards the blue too but the black looks badass if done well. My wifes uncle has a Nur Spec II in the green and its ok. He used to have an older bayside blue and that was nicer.

Here is another question for you guys;

Standard late model 34 in original spec with low kms (say 20,000kms)

or

99/2000 with a bunch of mods like the one above with mid to high kms around 70,000kms to 80,000kms.

Which would you rather buy??

The question my friend is, are you prepared to pay a lot more for a very low km late model car than a higher km earlier model unit. Because the difference will be huge.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello!  i just finished manual swaping my r34 skyline with a r33 rb20de box(RB71C)box  When the car is running it squeaks crazy loud and it was smoking from the gearbox area. The gearbox is fine it was tested. The clutch slave cylinder seems like it doesn't fully releases the clutch. I want to ask if this noise is from the throw out bearing or could it be the clutch assembly or disk att.xFliq87Gzw6kImKBVqDebXkj0fBqymk0JaYeP3_3SlM.mp4
    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...