Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi,

been looking around but couldnt find anywhere as to whether it is posible to remove the hideous looking and cluttery factory oil cooler,

the thing that sits on the block before the oil filter... would look so much nicer with it gone plus be ALOT easier to get in and around the engine there..

i do have a proper oil cooler so just dont feel this thing is necessary..

advice much appreciated,

thanks

surely some company out there must of made a plate that replaces the whole factory item with just an oil filter mount or better still braided line fittings as most people would run a remote oil filter..

Actually, you just unbolt it, and screw your oil filter on to the block...

Yes, I'm deadly serious.

What, unbolt & remove plate which cooler & filter are attached to & then screw filter directly onto block? I take it thats not what you mean?

No its not the way to go if thats what is meant. Block has no thread to screw an oil filter onto. Stock plate (which filter & cooler are attached to) just slides on, with an o-ring to seal & bolts to secure it

Have had factory oil-cooler & plate off but they ended up going back on. Thinking maybe non-turbo model has a plate between block & filter without provision for cooler or possibly cooler can be removed with a bolt blocking passage to it... Not 100% though. All I know is you cant remove that factory plate & just screw filter directly onto block

thats what i was thinkin.. so back to other idea has anyone ever made a plate to bolt back onto it with just a pair of earls fitings or the like so you can just run braided lines off it to the remote oil filter and cooler..

im not after the cooler or remote filter locator.. just a plain old bit of metal plate to replace the factory coolant operated oil cooler as i want to rid my engine bay of all excess CRAP in it to simplify things up a bit.. PLEASE ONLY post if you have had experience with this or no about it, sydneykid have you had any experiance with this??

Edited by R33_KRAZY

Well on 4 of my blocks (2 x RB25, 2x RB30) it was a matter of on the 25s, just completely unbolt the heat exchanger off the block, and screw the oil filter direct onto the block.

When I head down to my mums house next I'll try get some photos of the RB25 block that's down there stripped. It screws straight on for me, on 4 blocks.

From memory it's 4 12mm bolts that hold the oil cooler on, take it off, and my oil filter screwed straight to the block.

On my 25 there was only an unthreaded locator for the heat exchanger coming out of the block. I ended up using an RB20 oil filter mount and connecting the coolant hoses to each other to bypass the cooler. If you could get a threaded insert from an RB30 block you could fit this in the unthreaded locators place and have the oil filter straight off the block. I end up going with the RB20 mount though as I already had a remote filter and cooler and it looked like the hoses to the remote filter would foul on the engine mount if it was in that close to the block.

I also had to make up two longer fittings for the remote filter mount as the RB20 mount has the oil filter sitting directly over its center whereas the RB25 heat exchanger has the filter offset 30mm? or so towards the front of the car. Not much of a difference but enough that the hoses to the remote mount could no longer reach.

Clears up a bit of space under there :P

Edited by Mister25t

thanks heaps mate sounds like the way to go.. ive got the head of the engine at the moment and really wanted that hideous thing gone when i seen it ;) im trying to hide and remove as much stuff as i can.. BTW anyone got an rb20 filtor mount for sale :P

Edited by R33_KRAZY
thanks heaps mate sounds like the way to go.. ive got the head of the engine at the moment and really wanted that hideous thing gone when i seen it :) im trying to hide and remove as much stuff as i can.. BTW anyone got an rb20 filtor mount for sale :D

Yeah it was one of the first things I done to the car. Rates ups there with HICAS ;)

Also if you go that way with the RB20 mount it doesn't have provision for the oil pressure sender. Fortunately there is a tapped thread for it already on the block right below where it is positioned on the heat exchanger. I had to get a fitting from an engineering shop because the diameter of the oil pressure sender is too big and it was fouling on the webbing running down the block. It needed to come out just slightly to clear it (my oil pressure sender is a bit bent though. Somehow :) ).

No biggie, just get a brass male and female adaptor 1/8"x1/8" bspt I think was the size. Then you can remove the plug in the block, fit the adaptor then screw your oil pressure sender into that and you're away.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...