Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am looking for any helpers for the Show and Shine day comming up. I have a few helpers already but as the saying goes "many hands makes light work". There will be nothing hard to do but us execs can only do so many things at once. Any help will be appreciated, even if its for a couple of hours.

Sau and non Sau members accepted

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/295030-show-and-shine-2009-volunteers/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

C'mon people, we're putting on this Show n Shine for YOUR benefit as much as ours, so why not help us out here?

We Execs don't get paid a cent to put these events on for you, we do it for the love of it, regardless of the fact that most of us have jobs, study, families and other responsibilities to attend to as well!

So, if we don't get help from YOU people within the SAU community, then the events wouldn't run at all. I know I don't want that, do you??? :(

Of course, the more volunteers we have, then the less likely people will be stuck doing things all day. The less time people are stuck with tasks all day, the more time they can spend socialising and admiring the other cars out there on the day!

Put me down for volunteer duties - i'm in for car wrangling and other directive duties - just hand me a show layout plan and i'll help organise cars/stands. :D

Suggestion - Should the volunteers wear hi-vis?

All will be answered by Thursday night, just finalising a few things on Wednesday, then we should be all organised.

Good sugestion Xmetal, i'll chase that up

it shouldnt matter what the duties are, people should just be willing to help no matter what it is.

tom im assuming you got my email from duncan?

my girlfriend will be coming along too on that day so we can get her to help out too.

it shouldnt matter what the duties are, people should just be willing to help no matter what it is.

tom im assuming you got my email from duncan?

my girlfriend will be coming along too on that day so we can get her to help out too.

yup all good mate

Anyone providing tunes?
you still got all your gear and speakers?

If so i'll get back to you on that on thursday

ShengBert, we are pretty much sorted on the PA side of things, so it should be just a matter of securing the tunes and something to play them on, whether it's a set of turntables or even just a playlist set up off a computer or MP3 player of some sort. We're still working on this, but if you're willing to help out in this regard, that would be greatly appreciated!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
    • 9" wheels are a little too wide for a RWD 32. They can fit. People have put R33 GTR wheels on 32s for years and years. But they are a very tight squeeze. This has been known for about 30 years. As I said - there is no difference between a 17 and an 18 in terms of what will fit. The rolling diameter needs to stay about the same as stock - not very much larger. If you increase that, you will start to have problems. If you increae rolling diamater at the same time as yo increase width, you will have problems earlier. as 9" wheels are pushing the boundaries already, you would need to be careful with tyre choice. I would put 8.5s on the front of mine, but would expect problems with 9s.
    • post up screen shots of your injector tables
    • Diagnostic flow for a code 21 says check signal at the ECU pins, on a voltmeter of some kind it should read 0.1V at idle, 0.12V cranking, 0.15-0.25V at 2000 rpm. Check each coil such that +1, -3 is infinite or very high resistance, -3, +2 should do the same. (-1, +3), (+3, -2), (+1, -2), and (-1, +2) should all be somewhere between 0 ohms and high resistance. If you trace the path from the coil pin all the way back to the ECU in the diagram the resistance you measure at the coil vs connected to the harness should be pretty much the same. 
×
×
  • Create New...