Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys.....was a pretty hot day today in Melbourne and unfortunately had to run some errands in this heat.

after returning i noticed the extreme amount of heat the engine was emitting...to the point i started getting worried. water temps were as high as 95 degrees and oil almost hitting 90.

i have a Koyo radiator that i recently just put on and had no dramas until today. most of the heat is comming from the exhaust housing (top mount gt35r) and there is no heatsheild.

can anyone give me some tips as to how i might overcome these problems? some people have mentioned ceramic coating the front/dump pipes and the exhaust housing. atm ive only got some shonky heat wrap.

any help much appreciated guys.

My oil is usually at 90, today went a tiny bit over due to Aircon on but hardly ever seen it over 90. Last year on those 46-47 degree days it got to a bit over 120 but 90 is fine dude. The water temp is a little high though.

I think properly made heat shields are the way to go , the heat insulation bags around the turbine housing are supposed to be good things too .

Ideally you want to keep the heat in the exhaust gas so it can do positive things for you , heat radiated into an engine bay does nothing for you .

A .

Driving around today, i didn't go past 75 degree's water temp. Every setup i've had has never gone above that either.

No heat shield is your issue, you are crazy to run around without one IMO.

No heat shield is your issue, you are crazy to run around without one IMO.

Hmm, what exactly is a heat shield? Are we talking about something custom designed for the car?

I just have a Race Radiators item, it was made for a R33, but we modded the mounts, fits perfectly into a HR31.

That is basically it.

I also use the factory RB26 heat shields, RB26 clutch fan with shroud etc etc.

None of this wanky thermo business, just how Nissan intended it with a good quality radiator.

I have 1x A/C condenser and a radiator sized intercooler directly infront of the radiator as well, so its not exactly getting fresh air either :P

And i wouldn't say i have a massive 'mouth' on my front bar either.

The RB26 does sit lower in a HR31 than a GTR though (ie top of the cam gears is level with my radiator top), but i doubt that is anything major in terms of reasons.

Hmm, what exactly is a heat shield? Are we talking about something custom designed for the car?

Being he has a high mount, yes it will be custom made for the exhaust housing.

Usually just a 180degree bend of stainless that bolts on. Not hard for a fabricator with half a brain.

Cheers,

I was having trouble with mine last summer but i never knew because the factory temp gauge didnt move much. It wasn't until the tuner plugged it into his pc and took it for a drive (diagnosing another problem) we noticeed it around 90 degrees). Since then i have played with the clutch fan and have noticed a lot more air being pulled through.....i just have to wait until its back on the road!!!!

James

PS: I also have a 4.2EFI patrol that is nearly identical in the engine bay minus the turbo. I plugged my consult thingy in and noticed when the factory gauge is on 1/4 its 84 degree (sits there on normal driving) and 1/2 is 89 degrees!!!

Nismo thermostat worthwhile or not whats the general consensus

rebuilding my rb26 at the moment an wondering if its worth the extra dollars

2530's poncams etc etc was making 429 hp before it spun a bearing so big baffelled sump etc going in now

found with stock rad an nissan clutchfan etc it kept temps under control well before even on trackdays etc in Darwin heat!

Edited by noone
Nismo thermostat worthwhile or not whats the general consensus

rebuilding my rb26 at the moment an wondering if its worth the extra dollars

2530's poncams etc etc was making 429 hp before it spun a bearing so big baffelled sump etc going in now

found with stock rad an nissan clutchfan etc it kept temps under control well before even on trackdays etc in Darwin heat!

I hated mine... made it almost impossible to get the car up to temp on cold Melbourne nights but you might not have that problem in Darwin!

90º water and oil is fine... no reason to stress out

while were having this talk .i thought id ask.can u run an aftermarket 50m radiator and still keep the clutch fan in place? and dose the 26 clutch fan make much of a diffrence?????

Cant answer your query regarding the 50mm rad though I am pretty sure they will fit okay

Nissan clutch fan and correct shroud was so so much better than thermofan on my 32

that plus an oil cooler and I really didnt have to worry bout temps on track even in Darwin temps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...