Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

For those who heard my project plans a few months back the car has now been in the workshop for the past two weeks and thought I'd put up some pics to show you the progress.

Parts being used:

GTR Front Bar to fit GTS (Jetspeed)

400R Rear Bar (Jetspeed)

Do Luck Skirts (PSI Parts)

Wide Vented Front Guards (PSI Parts)

Wide Rear Guards (PSI Parts)

C/F Bonnet (Unknown)

C/F Duck Wing (PSI Parts)

C/F Diffuser Tray (PSI Parts)

C/F Front Lip (PSI Parts)

GTR Front Indicators (Kudosmotorsport)

Clear Side Indicators (eBay)

Aerocatch Pins (VSport)

Basically the car is having a widebody fitted with carbon accessories and there will be a full colour change but you'll have to follow this thread to see the end result. The rims are currently being ordered Volks SF Challenge 18x10 +10 front and rears being a GTS-4 didnt want staggered rims.

If you need any parts for a R33 I'd recommend speaking to Shane at PSI Parts top bloke and hasn't let me down on any of these parts all top condition especially on all c/f parts. Delivery or Pickup available in Dandenong

Bodywork being done by Phatt Audio Concepts in Mordialloc, thanks to all the boys slaving away there to get this done before summer, for those interested check out www.nsyane.tv and watch the videos on their bodywork and audio installations and diy installations. Everything from old school muscle cars, jap imports to euro and currently the Holden Alphabet car made up from VX VY VZ Avalanche, Maloo parts.

post-59566-1258119370_thumb.jpg

This is when the wheel arches have been plasma cut to allow for bigger rims to fit in no scrubbing

post-59566-1258119804_thumb.jpg

The front shot now showing the c/f bonnet, gtr front bar and wide front guards

post-59566-1258119838_thumb.jpg

The wide rears arches which need to get filled with some nice dish

post-59566-1258119874_thumb.jpg

Front angle shows the guards and vents in the bonnet

post-59566-1258119910_thumb.jpg

Top shot of the bonnet to get better view for you guys

post-59566-1258119946_thumb.jpg

Shows the stance of the wide arches front/rears

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296187-widebody-build-r33/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeh he said he was going to send it to me when I picked it up, but havnt received it, but yeh he said standard brackets are super low so gave me sum metals strips to make my own, I may mould it into the rear bar as ines got a 400r rear bar. Will see how it goes as thats like the last add-on feature

not putting shit on your car man as i think its gona turn out pretty good but its not realy wide body, will be same width as a gtr and my concern is that the diffuser will look shite on a 400r rear bar, diffuser is made to suit a standard bar, to my knowledge 400r bar already sits lower

best of luck with everything tho

  • 2 weeks later...

Any this mate...

Personally, I think custom-flaring the rear guards of a R33 and then getting GTR bolt-on front guards for a R33 would make it look super fan already!

Please please prove me wrong with some pictures!

^^^completely off topic, sorry, but spunky monkey, i would do crazy (probably illegal) things to the chick in your avater,,shes hott

HAHAHAHAHAHHA.....thanks mate...I had a picture of Monkey Magic there for like years...then I did a search on Google for spunky munky and funny enough this picture came up...so I added it to my Avatar...I even got some PM's asking if I'm her??

HAHAHAHAAHAHH so I cannot blame you! :)

Edited by Spunky Munky

Just on an update due to delays for the rims have changed from the Volks SF Challenge to Work Emotions XD9 with the polished lip with polished black centres.

Sizes:

5x114.3 - 18x10 +18 offset

post-59566-1259241005_thumb.jpg

Direct from Work Wheel Australia thanks to Mike

post-59566-1259240893_thumb.jpg

So you can see on a 32

Agreed although this is my build thread that the chick in the avatar is HOTT...lol

Why cudnt that be you, dam u spunky monkey, dam u! lmao

Hahahah...I'm sure you guys wanna spank my monkey!! :)

Cars currently in highfill atm possibly gettng the paint sprayed over the weekend or monday

Will be heading down to the shop this arvo to check out progress, don't worry once I know I'll post pics for you

Still waiting on the wheels from NSW, and some other accessories

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...