Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Brilliant steering as always from Mark- now imagine how that thing would go with some 4WD :down:

Silly question from the peanut gallery... what's the guage attached to the cage, top left of screen? Something highly technical like a "how much balls has Berry got right now" meter????

  • Replies 97
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Yeah, that little sideways on the warmup lap was the lock stops (it doesn't have much lock at all), nice catch Mark :down:

IMO, that really is some excellent driving for a guy who's been to Bathurst twice in two years, in two different cars.

Yeah, we jury rigged an Attessa pressure gauge to it so we could watch the vid and see it. There's your proof it had little if any 4WD.

ahh thanks Benny. thought that might have been it, given what was happening on the track in the few spots i noticed the needle moving- i might get through my gtr backyard mechanic-ing apprenticeship yet!

when's the cars next outing?

well for limited 4WD it looked really well sorted, the couple of moments were in low speed corners... the aero package must be doing its job!

Fark that takes some balls though, very well driven to be so smooth with all that power... look forward to seeing this car develop and decimate all!

im with roy... you guys need to rip out the 4wd and start being awesome!! haha.

nah seriously, you guyz... yous are my heroes. when my gtst grows up... it wants to be the hi octane r34.

well done!

yeah the aero definitely works. it's certainly been put to the test at 320km/h! mark was very happy with the amount of aero grip the body and wing were generating and drag can't be too bad either as it's getting a fair old whack of pace both up mountain straight and back down conrod... :thumbsup:

That's epic. I'm going to have to add this event to the "to do" list I reckon!

That 4WD seems to be working only from wheel-slip. So it's like the longitudinal sensor just isn't working or giving feedback to the ATTESSA at all.

I too brought up a 2WD conversion, simply because it does get such good traction, even better if it wasn't carrying 100kg of useless (at the moment) 4WD running gear, but, we're all of the opinion converting it to 2WD would take too much away from it still being a GTR.

That's epic. I'm going to have to add this event to the "to do" list I reckon!

That 4WD seems to be working only from wheel-slip. So it's like the longitudinal sensor just isn't working or giving feedback to the ATTESSA at all.

Should try FOSC at Easter..it's cheaper...but think it would clash with Targa Tas :thumbsup:

I was telling Brighty about it..He had a good weekend up there with Hi Octane Team but had issues so could of done a better time..

For the price paid..How many runs/sessions did entrants get Benny??

Should try FOSC at Easter..it's cheaper...but think it would clash with Targa Tas :thumbsup:

I was telling Brighty about it..He had a good weekend up there with Hi Octane Team but had issues so could of done a better time..

For the price paid..How many runs/sessions did entrants get Benny??

Plenty, I think Mark did in the region of 55 laps, and we missed all day saturday and packed up before the final two sessions sunday. Basically, you could easily wear your car out if you wanted to I reckon.

I think it's a stretch to say having the three litre engine takes much away from it being a GTR, certainly much less than removing the 4WD system anyway. Having a 3 litre is no bigger modification from factory than having high mount turbos in my opinion, and Giant's car is still on low mounts and factory exhaust manifolds.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...