Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Brilliant steering as always from Mark- now imagine how that thing would go with some 4WD :down:

Silly question from the peanut gallery... what's the guage attached to the cage, top left of screen? Something highly technical like a "how much balls has Berry got right now" meter????

  • Replies 97
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Yeah, that little sideways on the warmup lap was the lock stops (it doesn't have much lock at all), nice catch Mark :down:

IMO, that really is some excellent driving for a guy who's been to Bathurst twice in two years, in two different cars.

Yeah, we jury rigged an Attessa pressure gauge to it so we could watch the vid and see it. There's your proof it had little if any 4WD.

ahh thanks Benny. thought that might have been it, given what was happening on the track in the few spots i noticed the needle moving- i might get through my gtr backyard mechanic-ing apprenticeship yet!

when's the cars next outing?

well for limited 4WD it looked really well sorted, the couple of moments were in low speed corners... the aero package must be doing its job!

Fark that takes some balls though, very well driven to be so smooth with all that power... look forward to seeing this car develop and decimate all!

im with roy... you guys need to rip out the 4wd and start being awesome!! haha.

nah seriously, you guyz... yous are my heroes. when my gtst grows up... it wants to be the hi octane r34.

well done!

yeah the aero definitely works. it's certainly been put to the test at 320km/h! mark was very happy with the amount of aero grip the body and wing were generating and drag can't be too bad either as it's getting a fair old whack of pace both up mountain straight and back down conrod... :thumbsup:

That's epic. I'm going to have to add this event to the "to do" list I reckon!

That 4WD seems to be working only from wheel-slip. So it's like the longitudinal sensor just isn't working or giving feedback to the ATTESSA at all.

I too brought up a 2WD conversion, simply because it does get such good traction, even better if it wasn't carrying 100kg of useless (at the moment) 4WD running gear, but, we're all of the opinion converting it to 2WD would take too much away from it still being a GTR.

That's epic. I'm going to have to add this event to the "to do" list I reckon!

That 4WD seems to be working only from wheel-slip. So it's like the longitudinal sensor just isn't working or giving feedback to the ATTESSA at all.

Should try FOSC at Easter..it's cheaper...but think it would clash with Targa Tas :thumbsup:

I was telling Brighty about it..He had a good weekend up there with Hi Octane Team but had issues so could of done a better time..

For the price paid..How many runs/sessions did entrants get Benny??

Should try FOSC at Easter..it's cheaper...but think it would clash with Targa Tas :thumbsup:

I was telling Brighty about it..He had a good weekend up there with Hi Octane Team but had issues so could of done a better time..

For the price paid..How many runs/sessions did entrants get Benny??

Plenty, I think Mark did in the region of 55 laps, and we missed all day saturday and packed up before the final two sessions sunday. Basically, you could easily wear your car out if you wanted to I reckon.

I think it's a stretch to say having the three litre engine takes much away from it being a GTR, certainly much less than removing the 4WD system anyway. Having a 3 litre is no bigger modification from factory than having high mount turbos in my opinion, and Giant's car is still on low mounts and factory exhaust manifolds.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...