Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I found the issue with the factory boost gauge bouncing or not working at all. If you open the sender unit, dont remove the board, just solder the three pins (at the top of pic) that run to the plug underneath and youre done. Literally a 2 minute fix.

post-63525-1258935902_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297345-m35-factory-boost-gauge-repair/
Share on other sites

So is that the issue then - just a bad contact on some of the solder points?

Excuse my newbie-ness, but where is this sender unit located? I have done a bit of soldering in high school but my brother-in-law is an electronics tech so I'll get him to do the actual fix up...

Is it easy to get to? or is it a case of 30 mins getting to the part, and 2 minutes to fix it...?

Steve, it is the black, roundish sensor that sits to the left of the rubber bend part of the intercooler pipe

Just unscrew from bracket, remove bottom hose and pop the tabs on each of the four sides.

That is him, in the middle.

IMG_1582a.jpg

Edited by iamhe77
Steve, it is the black, roundish sensor that sits to the left of the rubber bend part of the intercooler pipe

Just unscrew from bracket, remove bottom hose and pop the tabs on each of the four sides.

Thanks mate :P

I think the ecu sensor is the one before the blow off valve you can see in the top right of the pic.

Fix it yourself, its just a dab with the iron. Easy. :P

Edited by scotty nm35
its funny, RX and ARX dont have boost gauges yet they still have the sensor lol

is it a 0-5v sensor? might be able to use that instead of installing another one for an aftermarket gauge.

digital boost readout anyone? :P

  • 2 years later...
  • 3 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • All 3 I guess. The car came with the JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit unpainted so this was one thing at the top of my list to complete then I noticed there were body panels parts for this kit so i picked them up along with some black mesh to fill in the front bumper and front side air vents. car is at a paint and body shop atm completing this work. Next I will be addressing the internal bells and whistles, great summer project I can do with the kids.  full interior removal - ,boys car sound deadening - pads and spray ,boys stereo, sound, lighting - Big 3, GTT or bigger alternator ,kids head lining - dye black add star lighting mod ,daughter. That's it for the next 5-6 months. I have some motor maintenance  work i have to plan out. oil filter relocation, gaskets, mounts. beyond that, mind is starting to turn over if i can use a DET intake plenum, block off turbo ports & pipe in a air intake.      
    • roller coaster of a ride. Alarm system was removed & main harness was repaired where possible. still no fix just random successful starts. moved on to the replacing the ignition switch and relay. well all this troubleshooting & repair has been going on, the car is at a paint and body shop being pushed around. Ive been going down there on odd days after work to get it sorted.     
    • 5th November if you want to come out for a spin wakfield
    • PROBLEM WAS BROKEN COOLANT SENSOR!!! Replaced with a new one and its running mint.
    • I think he was only proposing to use the wire, not the sender. Simply because it runs from the right place to the right place. Personally, I wouldn't hack up the factory wiring like that. I'd just lay in the Defi loom.
×
×
  • Create New...