Jump to content
SAU Community

Changed Turbo And Now Overheating!

toan

By toan,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

toan Collaborator

toan

Posted
Posted

hey guys

i just changed the turbo on my r32 gts4, i put in a R33 turbo that was rebuilt and hiflow'd! also using a justjap slipt dump pipe(screamer)

car was running perfectly fine! the turbo lines were just all cut off and a hose fitted and tightend.

coolent is flused and new. car runs fine as it is without steping on it but then when i step on it within like a minute or so the temp gauge starts going up high!

When the car is turned off i can hear the water boiling.

Nothing is leaking!

hope someone can help so i can resolve this problem!

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297629-changed-turbo-and-now-overheating/
Share on other sites
StealthX Veteran

StealthX

Posted
Posted

hmm strange...

the turbo lines were just all cut off and a hose fitted and tightend.

explain this?

you mean to say your running a water cooled turbo, without the water lines attached?

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

you have not bleed the cooling system correctly. you should fix this ASAP before you damage your engine.

If you are unsure how to do this, take your car to a mechanic who knows how to bleed skylines and get it done properly.

GTRaddict Rookie

GTRaddict

Posted
Posted
hey guys

i just changed the turbo on my r32 gts4, i put in a R33 turbo that was rebuilt and hiflow'd! also using a justjap slipt dump pipe(screamer)

car was running perfectly fine! the turbo lines were just all cut off and a hose fitted and tightend.

coolent is flused and new. car runs fine as it is without steping on it but then when i step on it within like a minute or so the temp gauge starts going up high!

When the car is turned off i can hear the water boiling.

Nothing is leaking!

hope someone can help so i can resolve this problem!

thanks

You might have an air lock in your cooling system for when you flushed it. If so, try starting your car with the rad cap open. keep it open even afther the thermostat opens. this way the bubbles will eventually go away. Hope it help!

Cheers!

payback21 Community Regular

payback21

Posted
Posted

Take it all the way out. It pays to turn heater on to get the air out of the heater system aswell. Water will trickle out when the air is out. It does take a little while for the water to come out okies.

SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
Posted

take it somewhere to bleed it if you arent sure, you could easily have your temps over 100 degrees without even knowing it.

if you INSIST to do it yourself the steps are:

- start the car with the radiator cap off, keep topping it up till its filled.

- turn on the heater to the HOTTEST setting and run it at its maximum speed.

- loosen the bleeder till its around 1 thread till its off and keep it there till its completely bled.

- keep going till no bubbles come out of the bleeder.

you can use some kind of funnel type thing (see below) to help it along.

i dont have a bleeder on mine, i do the old 'put on a sealed bottle to raise the highest point of the cooling system' trick. works well, car bleeds pretty quick. you have to block off the overflow hose for it to work properly though.

WYTSKY Veteran

WYTSKY

Posted
Posted

I changed the coolant not long ago in mine... I did all the things security has mentioned.... thought all the bubbles were out, took it for a drive and on the pfc it was telling me straight away that the temps were going up... went straight back home (only got down the street) i let it bleed for 15 mins which i thought was enough.... ended up taking like 30 mins with the heater going full.... so how long did u bleed urs for?

SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
Posted

you replied 30mins after i posted - i highly doubt you did it right mate.

i wait there, squeeze both of the radiator hoses continuously as im topping up my funnel thing - it just helps get ALL of the air bubbles out. i suggest taking it to someone who knows what theyre doing.

LANDSCRIBBLE Mentor

LANDSCRIBBLE

Posted
Posted

Mate dont risk f**king your engine up, dont touch it unless you know exactly what ya doing, take it, wait, and pay a proffessional mechanic to do it the right way, then you can get that piece of mind and sleep like a baby.

dont mean to sound like a dickhead, but i dont want your car to blow up :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • dyl33
      VOLK RACING GTC CENTRE CAPS

      By dyl33 · Posted

      Centre caps $250
    • Kapr
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Duncan
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Duncan · Posted

      Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Kapr
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...