Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

best bet, talk to Jetwreck as he has sorted through these problems for someone at least once before.

mmm.. Nagoya...

Have you changed your aircon filter (in the passenger footwell behind glove box) I pulled one out for someone and it was marked that it was changed 2 years prior at 70k. Only thing was the car was purchased in Oz with 42k 2 years prior.... the plot thickened.

So that sticker has the km it was changed at or the km to change it next?

Penrite also make a compatible oil for matic J which is full synthetic.

I payed closer attention today when I put the car into Drive... The clunking seems to come from the rear.. Obviously the diff has backlash.. BUT the car lurches Forward when it does into Drive.

Sound strange?

I'll so a service on the box, I'll use penrite 100% synthetic, it is matic J compatible.. Dno what you guys think of penrite, but I even use it to oil my BBQ.. (Jokes right)

Is the filter a gauze type? So it is serviceable, no need for replacing?

Checked out the AC filter... no date or anything on it.

slightly off topic

found this behind the glove box

IMG_4441_zpsb2383a9a.jpg

no idea wat it does, got some switch on the right side of the centre console...its doing something, but at the same time nothing ( obviously with the TV)

anyway, back to topic

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...