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Yeah as long as its cool to touch..

Mind you I never did mine :whistling:

But its only logical...you don't want to work with a heat soaked engine bay if you can help it...nevermind tryuing to undo a scalding plenum...

Edited by ironpaw

But its only logical...you don't want to work with a heat soaked engine bay if you can help it...nevermind tryuing to undo a scalding plenum...

Yeah I get that. I was just wondering more about torquing the bolts and whether or not it had to be completely cold to do it.

How does one go about removing the studs with the nuts on them? 5mm spanner?

Lock 2 nuts against one another & then try to 'undo' the bottom one. Since it's stuck in place by the top one, the stud will come out.

Mmm, explanation flakey, but you'll work it out...

Edit - I've not pulled my plenum off so ignore this if I've misunderstood your question.

Edited by Commsman

I used a 1/4 inch drive socket & extension bar on mine, don't forget to give the head of the stud a solid tap before trying to remove.

Steel into alloy tends to form an electrolytic bond due to heat cycling (think seized gearbox drain & fill plugs), a decent hit with a hammer will break the bond. Go easy, the studs are very soft, if it doesn't loosen, give it another slightly harder hit. It should wind out with only a small amount of effort.

A little drop of WD40 or penetrene down the thread will not hurt either.

A dab of blue loctite is handy when fitting the longer studs; this will ensure the studs don't wind in too far as you tighten the nuts, as they aren't shouldered like the OEM studs.

Mask off the open inlet ports before removing the old studs, fitting the new studs and drilling your holes; I removed the tape after drilling, but before fitting the new studs & promptly dropped one of the long studs down No1 inlet port. pinch.gif It didn't fall into the cylinder (it's too big to fit anyway), but it was an inch past where i could reach with my fingers, and I had to use a claw tool to retrieve it.:whistling:

I nearly had a freaking heart attack, such a schoolboy error; don't be a mutt like me.:blush:

  • 4 years later...

Good luck. I don't even have the original aluminium spacer that was later used as the cutting template.

You'll probably be better off buying a gasket from Nissan (see OP for part number) and having one laser cut to your desired height

What do you mean "follow through with this"?

I sold a number of kits with the phenolic spacer and I think Andy and Craig did as well.

My old M35 is still alive and kicking on the Mornington Peninsula - going by the last pics I saw in a "for sale" ad, the spacer was still in there (you can tell by the raised plenum).

I am not running a plenum spacer on my PNM35, although if I could somehow get my hands on a Cosworth plenum I would most likely add a spacer.

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