Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is that ment to look like that?

SV: I think it’s looking good. We are Red Bull, we are in a unique position again this year and we are horny - can you say that in English or does it not make too much sense?

sebs horny! look out!

  • Replies 3.6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Kubica did a great job...bit i was equally impressed with how Webber got on with it and was overtaking cars on the quicker tyres. I was impressed hpw he cut some nice moves on Glock, Kobayashi & Schuey

Agreed. MW looked hungry...

how the hell didn't that tyre deflate?

I think he was the master of understatement in the press conference when he said there was some vibration and the tyres wore perfectly, and then added 'there was nothing left'.

Small irony that the MW contact with LH was quite similar to LH's contact with Massa last race. LH must be feeling a little unlucky. With that sort of luck he needs to go home and check that Nicole Scherzinger isn't a bloke in drag.

Mclaren just needs to install a bumper-ring around LH's car, ala indoor Karts.....

If you have a look on the AUTOSPORT website you can see where marks Tyre has rolled off the outer bead and is 5mm from rolling of the wheel itself, whichever Bridgestone mechanic put that wheel on today deserves a cold one I think :P

Agreed, amazing pic of Webber's wheel, thanks for posting.

Also thought Kub's drive at the end was amazing, very impressive, even if his tyres were fresh and those of the others he passed were not. His engineer's radio cracked me up after the first pass; "oh and these guys coming up, their tyres are also 50 laps old" :P

Absolutely loved Vettel trying to take off from the pits in 2nd gear! :happy: was lucky to get away with that one.

yeh saw that, commintator picked up on it as well, wanted to see a replay to see what gear was displayed on the wheel when he took off. was probably frustrated as team fu#ked his race by bringing him in with alonso. thought they would leave him out for a couple of flyers then pit him. seems redbull can only concentrate on one drivers strategy per race.

Agreed, amazing pic of Webber's wheel, thanks for posting.

Also thought Kub's drive at the end was amazing, very impressive, even if his tyres were fresh and those of the others he passed were not. His engineer's radio cracked me up after the first pass; "oh and these guys coming up, their tyres are also 50 laps old" :wub:

Absolutely loved Vettel trying to take off from the pits in 2nd gear! :) was lucky to get away with that one.

Well both Ferrari and RBR were saying they wanted to pit ASAP as the harder tyres were now qucker then their well used softs, problem was the McLarens were 2-4 seconds a lap slower and after pitting they woudl have been behind the far slower Mclarens.

So as soon as the Macs pitted that gave them a window of free track. They both wanted to put asap as if they pitted after the other then the guy got pitted first on his out lap woudl have been far quicker on the new hard tyres so the guy staying out was only ever going to lose ground.

Seems to make sense, shame they didnt have the 30sec to the Macs that they needed as it would have been interesting to see if RBR had more race pace then Fezz

Seems to make sense, shame they didnt have the 30sec to the Macs that they needed as it would have been interesting to see if RBR had more race pace then Fezz

Yeah, it was great in the last handful of laps as you could see Vettel turning up the wick; RB had more fight in reserve, but it seems as though the brakes were always a concern for them? (at least up until those last few laps when they could afford to go nuts).

(Webber's brake failure last season; continual feedback between Vettel and engineer re: brake condition)

Logistics of running a GP tells me it would simply get cancelled. Slight chance that they could run a GP in Japan at Fuji if there are no schedule conflicts, as the team are already in Suzuka for the previous GP and logistically would be easier to get to Brazil from Japan then Korea....but odds on Korea will be on. As if Bermie is going to say something in public if he does not already know EXACTLY what is transpiring

yeh saw that, commintator picked up on it as well, wanted to see a replay to see what gear was displayed on the wheel when he took off. was probably frustrated as team fu#ked his race by bringing him in with alonso. thought they would leave him out for a couple of flyers then pit him. seems redbull can only concentrate on one drivers strategy per race.

Here you go. ;) Last frame is after he finally drops it back to 1st. Agreed it was probably heat of the moment and a bit of frustration, but still a rookie error hey.

Vettel_Singapore2010.jpg

im not worry about korea!

India on the other hand! if its anything like the commonwealth games, im sure there will be potholes in the track lol

A general view of the site for the 2011 Indian Grand Prix near New Delhi. Construction has been hampered by Delhi's recent monsoonal rain

6767.jpg

Edited by Kaido_RR

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...