Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There was actually one for sale somewhere on here.. It was fairly cheap too

edit: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/436977-r30-skyline/

$1000..

I'll go halvsies with someone? ;)

Edited by dontyellpl0x
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30059-spotted/page/920/#findComment-7173354
Share on other sites

The ARK is going to have to wait... But I wish. :rolleyes:

There would've likely been Jap versions too but I've mostly only seen Coupe or 4door sedans and not hatches.

dr30-1.jpgDR30-rst.jpgab32a0df.jpg

dr30-1.jpg

4517428233_b705468fc1_o.jpg

This R34 ^^^ Looks MAD! and I love the Wagon too. :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30059-spotted/page/920/#findComment-7173392
Share on other sites

That silver thing is faaaaarkn nice ... (even with four handles) .. the 34!, well that just goes without saying .. :P

Have been thinking of dropping the wing, it looks good .. but then there's the 'tradition' thing goin on with my wing, it's always a debate within my mind. ;)

Edited by THE34T
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30059-spotted/page/920/#findComment-7173546
Share on other sites

Get a spare bootlid without the wing and chop and change.

If you no like, flip it back. :D

Tradition Schmadishion.

which reminds me... I really should try get around to getting my spare bootlid with wing painted. :yes:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30059-spotted/page/920/#findComment-7173551
Share on other sites

Silver R33 S2 with P plate, R34 GT rims and a big scar down the drivers side at Charnie shops Lunchtime-ish. Greetings were swapped thru open windows.

(I was in the 33)

Parked next to a Silver StageA AR-X 4 at Charnie shops around 6pm.

(I was in the SkyWagon)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30059-spotted/page/920/#findComment-7174067
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
    • I am truly amazed someone on this planet was able to cycle the pump using a scan tool. I've always ghetto cycled them on Nissan 90s shit boxes by slamming the brakes and pulling the handbrake to agitate the rear wheels enough to cause a speed difference
×
×
  • Create New...