Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 90
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

how big was the chunk? to be honest with all that compression n shit i recon it would just burn that crap out thinking its a small piece.. on a larger scale good luck with the rebuild not gona sit here saying why did u start it.. the past is the past if she needs a rebuild just enjoy it :D i know i would:D

funny thing is i drove it for the first time in 7 months after my accident and this happends

it wasnt clicked over for 7 months cos i had a front end colision

ony drove it 100 kms grr i misss it lol

well i did the whoe process and its not as loud but still there

ionly started it for 5 seconds

i dont know weather to let it keep running and let it crush up for to leave it

hmm this is giving me the shits

i just did some reasearch on the ngk website and the dumbshit at autobran has given me the wrong plug i think

the codes are different too what i got so it might be the answer

SON OF A BITCH

i just did some reasearch on the ngk website and the dumbshit at autobran has given me the wrong plug i think

the codes are different too what i got so it might be the answer

SON OF A BITCH

Check part numbers in the shop, where possible check inside the packaging too. Nearly had wrong oil filters a few times and been handed the wrong fuel filter before. Same goes for plugs, everything really.

if it screws in fine, the fault is yours. i havent used the specified plugs in my car for 4 years.

it sounds like you're dead-set on running your car without checking anything at all. although i think its fcuking stupid i'll give you some tips on how to do a bit less damage than you already have:

pull out the CAS and injector looms, pull out ALL spark plugs, pour some oil (around 300ml) into the bore through the plug hole of the cylinder you dropped the crap into then crank the motor for 5sec. do this a few times.

this may not fix your problem but at least this way you have more of a chance of success than the route you're taking now. keep in mind that you should get ALL of the oil out before starting the car again otherwise you may cause the car to hydraulic lock once the plugs are in. its not as easy as it sounds so if you dont feel comfortable doing it - dont!

when you turn your car on you will get a fair bit of blue smoke out of the exhaust from the oil that is now in there - give it some time to burn up.

again, DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK and i HIGHLY recommend you rip the head off or at least get a bore scope instead.

LOL @ the people saying it'll crush up/burn...

1: It's the end of a spark plug. It won't burn

2: While it's being "crushed up" it's being slammed into your bore and gouging the f**k out of it...

3: When it reaches the head side of things and gets to the valves... Even more trouble...

I have a piece of piston come loose and "crush up" in my motor... It took everything out, lost compression through the bottom end, and also smashed valves... And the only sign? Masses of blue smoke on throttle, and a lumpy idle.

funny thing is i drove it for the first time in 7 months after my accident and this happends

it wasnt clicked over for 7 months cos i had a front end colision

ony drove it 100 kms grr i misss it lol

The noise you are hearing wouldn't be a sticky lifter would it?

If you haven't started it for 7mths you might hearing something that is unrelated to dropping the porcelain in there....if you are lucky.

Security I thought of that today and u got a point

my friend contacted me and he said he had the same prob and he said. Could possibly flush it out and hope it hasn't scattered around the head. Bt if I still hear it I'll take the head off and go from there

thanks for the help ts been stressful

what if i tightend the spark plugs too hard woud it make a clunking sound?

impossible unless you fitted the wrong plugs (projected type), skyline plugs MUST be BCP type.... we use BCPR7ES, i see alot of BKR plugs in rb's and they are also WRONG.

The porcelain makes nice divits in the head and piston which in turn cause hotspots and promote pre ignition (pinking)

impossible unless you fitted the wrong plugs, skyline plugs MUST be BCPR type.... we use BCPR7ES, i see alot of BKR plugs in rb's and they are also WRONG.

The porcelain makes nice divits in the head and piston which in turn cause hotspots and promote pre ignition (pinking)

nothing wrong with BCP7ES :-) who needs that damn resistor anyway

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...