Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there,

Normally for a problem like this, i'd goto my mechanic, but with Xmas break and all, thats gonna be a bit difficult, so hoping some1 can help me with this.

To cut a long story short, I've just replaced the oil filter housing piece on my rb25DET. After screwing it all in, putting the oil pressure sender back on, refilling the oil, took it for a test drive and everything was a-ok.

Then today, I started it and noticed the oil pressure gauge sitting on 0 and the oil warning light on. Checked undeaneath the car, no leaks, checks the oil level which was fine and engine also sounds fine.

So im thinking the oil pressure sensor clip has come loose, so i take it for a small drive. To my horror, the oil pressure starts moving up VERY slowly, ie doesnt make it to 2kpa.

Now i know low oil pressure can be a sign of engine failure or a failed pump but im thinking its too much of a coincedence that Ive just changed the oil filter housing. My first thoughts are that something is blocking or interfering with the oil pressure sender. Was wondering what other ppl think it might be, Thanks.

Also FYI, I installed a new adapter onto the housing that lets me put 2 senders in it, and installed a oil temp sender in the other hole - its a gold t-pies looking thing.

Also the new housing I installed was 2nd hand, I gave it a quick clean with the cloth but im worried that there might have been some large piece of gunk inside it that I couldnt see and is now blocking oil access to the sender.

Edited by Taso84

check the wiring on the sender, sounds like it could be a poor connection on something, i had a similar issue with my ground wire before i ground off the paint off the chassis to make a better contact.

low oil pressure causes serious damage, very quickly, so if the motor's still strong after 5 or so mins of running, you can rule out oil system failure i reckon...

If the factory oil pressure gage AND the idiot red light came on, you have a real problem, not a wiring problem. The red light is a seperate sensor that's just and on/off pressure switch and it's completely independent of the normal gage.

should still make its way into the engine, the only way out is to the main gallery,

if you can open the oil cap while its running and see if there is oil splashing around in there, if not then its a problem.

so, you replaced the oil filter/cooler assembly? why?

no aftermarket oil cooler with hoses? do you now have a remote oil filter? if the hoses are mixed up that can trick the sensor.

Hi guys, and thansk for ur feedback.

Just to answer some questions, no i did not renew the oring on the housing shaft, so im not sure whether it is there or not. If this were missing, what would be the consequences?

Also, no i dont have a oil cooler now, basically my old housing broke due to overtightening of a sandwich plate. T04GTR, when u say open up the oil cap why its running, u mean the cap from which u pour oil into right? I didnt realise u could see down there but ill check it out.

Hi guys, and thansk for ur feedback.

Just to answer some questions, no i did not renew the oring on the housing shaft, so im not sure whether it is there or not. If this were missing, what would be the consequences?

Also, no i dont have a oil cooler now, basically my old housing broke due to overtightening of a sandwich plate. T04GTR, when u say open up the oil cap why its running, u mean the cap from which u pour oil into right? I didnt realise u could see down there but ill check it out.

Hi guys, and thansk for ur feedback.

Just to answer some questions, no i did not renew the oring on the housing shaft, so im not sure whether it is there or not. If this were missing, what would be the consequences?

Also, no i dont have a oil cooler now, basically my old housing broke due to overtightening of a sandwich plate. T04GTR, when u say open up the oil cap why its running, u mean the cap from which u pour oil into right? I didnt realise u could see down there but ill check it out.

did you renew the oring on the housing shaft?

my guess is its either faulty or missing.

my thought too, if the old one was off for awhile it could be perished or missing.

Well obviously you dont understand the fact that oil pressure is crucial for the survival of the engine.

Just fix it and be done with it, or take it to someone who can!

You can drive it if you like but chances are you wont get very far.

RB25's hydro lifters would sound like 24 rocks in a tin can if they were not getting decent oil press,

Good chance you botched the install but as per most of the people here, rather get it sorted asap preferably by a pro, oil problems and engines = expencive.

If the factory oil pressure gage AND the idiot red light came on, you have a real problem, not a wiring problem. The red light is a seperate sensor that's just and on/off pressure switch and it's completely independent of the normal gage.

It's been a while since i dug up in the 25 but isnt the oil pressure sender and the oil light unit that big round gold colored two pin thing by the oil filter?!?

If so if it has been damaged somehow when changing out the housing that will probably explain why the two readings went wacko at once.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...