Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Did ur turbo come with the port shrouded comp (slots around the comp wheel) as shown in the link u posted???

didnt see it before install. but doubt it.

my guess is that they are showing the 3076R instead which has the 60 comp housing and optional surge housing

My thoughts exactly.

False advertisement!!!

Not sure if it would class as false advertisement, more incomplete....

I think the main issue (as also experienced by myself with a bolt on kit from the same shop), is that they sell the kit as a bolt on package, and I also had to buy longer studs and a spacer which i wasnt aware of until the stocker is on the floor and the turbo doesnt clear the stock manifold.

I think its just a matter of either saying you need the extra gear or puting it in the kit and adding to the price.

^^ unfortunately the big internet suppliers like tweakit and hpbox (in my deliveries and expereince) supply a generic turbo in a box with a few parts. GCG on the other hand does all the housing clocking and the kit comes with everything (hoses, dump, spacer etccc) and it works out cheaper in the end as the fitter does not have to charge for missing parts or the time to re-clock the turbo housings or fab up actuator brackets...

The turbocharger facts as I see them . Anything Garrett BB with a GT30 turbine should be called GT30xxR turbo . The cropped version of the GT30 turbine is still a GT30 turbine .

HKS screwed this area up by calling their cropped GT30 turbine equipt versions as GT"28"35R . Take this to the grave , there is NOTHING GT28 about those turbos - except maybe the bored out bastardised GT28 IW turbine housings they used on CA/SR/RB26 "bolt on" "GT2835R" turbos .

Garrett turbos are virtually always described by their turbine series ie GT25/28/30/35/37/40/42/45 etc etc .

The cropped version of the GT3071R , this is the current systems real name for turbos with GT30 turbines and 71.1mm compressors , is not such a bad thing provided the turbine housing works with that turbine wheel . Sadly only HKS had GT30 based turbine housings made for that turbine while Garrett never did . They also bore out GT28 turbine housings to suit but the result is not terribly good - low turbine efficiency .

I reckon for the money spent they could provide the designed for the full sized GT30 turbine T3 flanged Garrett GT30 IW turbine housing , its dump flange is not the same as RB20/RB25 but the housing is the correct match for the uncropped 60 odd mm turbine wheel .

People really need to do their homework with turbos before they comit to them . I know people go looking for what seems to be a good overall turbo/fitting kit price but hunting for lowest price can be risky . You have to know every component required to get it in and running to have a realistic insight to pricing .

The biggest stumbling blocks tend to be the turbine housing and dump pipe and if you want best results you can't compromise either .

RB25 and VG30 turbine housings are not the best things to put GT30 turbines in because they are not designed to work with these wheels . Even the VG one is not big housing wise , big in the Hitachi range but not by GT30 standards . It can be done and can save some money on dump pipes but really those dumps are questionable when it comes to the sorts of exhaust gas flows a really flying GT30 turbine is capable of .

Best case scenerio for an IW GT30 turbo is the Garrett housing with a custom dump pipe or the HKS GT Pro housings with a custom or HKS dump pipe .

HKS do them for 60 and 56mm GT30 turbines , Garrett only for 60mm ones .

Lots of reading on this board about GT30 based turbos and various Skyline models .

Cheers A .

As Disco states, not alot of research going on, in this particular case anyway. Look, we all make mistakes, this seems to be one of them. Having said that, it really isn't a bad thing. These turbos will go on to give you a real kick in the pants at almost any revs above 2,700rpm. I bought my 3071 with the real 60mm turbine wheel and Garrett housing because I simply had enough of turbine restriction due to small turbine housings. Mine is the .82. Instant power anytime and the only thing holding it back is cams or a 3.5" exhaust or both. This sucker just loves to rev.

These turbos are real street turbos and can be exellent for scaring the pants off modified XR6T drivers. It's all about what your after, less lag means less power, more lag will give you the power but you have to pick your moments and be prepared for them. IE: right gear, right revs or say goodbye to that taxi on LPG. I for one have wanted to step up to a 3076 but how fast do you want to go ? What we have with the 3071 is the perfect street turbo, just wind the boost up and get that 260kws, you know you want to.

am happy with the car as it is now.

as smell mentions, its more about not receiving what was advertised. i did my reasearch and wanted exactly what was advertised.

it is false advertisment in my view.

i had a lot of success with my 3071r which had 0.71 rear OP6 housing, It did require a lot of work to make it fit, and almost every turbo will have to have the housings rotated to fit if they are not a direct bolt on replacement. 1 bar isnt really enough boost to get the most out of these turbos. Mine made 280 ish rwkw on 16-17 psi this was with cams tho. it made same power without cams but required 20ish psi to do the same job.

all in all. a great turbo with decent response.

am happy with the car as it is now.

as smell mentions, its more about not receiving what was advertised. i did my reasearch and wanted exactly what was advertised.

it is false advertisment in my view.

With all due respect, read the terms and conditions...point 5 to be precise, and stop going on about false advertisement.

You got the turbo you ordered. It is EXACTLY the turbo you ordered.

There are two ways to fit the oil line so it is possible the mechanics fitting the turbo mucked that up. If Tweakit did, in fact, leave out the spacer or silicon by mistake, then sure, they made an error. EASY FIX. Tell them they left some bits out and get a refund for those parts.

With all due respect, read the terms and conditions...point 5 to be precise, and stop going on about false advertisement.

You got the turbo you ordered. It is EXACTLY the turbo you ordered.

There are two ways to fit the oil line so it is possible the mechanics fitting the turbo mucked that up. If Tweakit did, in fact, leave out the spacer or silicon by mistake, then sure, they made an error. EASY FIX. Tell them they left some bits out and get a refund for those parts.

the picture isnt really the issue here, the text is.

as stomper also mentions, ad is for a bolt on kit to suit the specific car. his spacer was also not included and studs were incorrect. This is false advertisment.

as for the 3071r specs on the site, they are incorrect. as i wanted the .60 comp and .82 ar i should have chosen the 3076r, which is the correct specs and on their site these are the specs also listed for the 3071r

I will speak to them about this so they can correct the site.

Possibly they are under the impression that the spacer is being supplied, or should be. Obviously it isnt. this could be miscommunication from their supplier.

as you said elite racing, money is pretty much spot on for what i did receive.

thanks for your imput here guys.

And on that note about wording, how hard can it be for a workshop to actually bolt the damn turbo on a particuar car THEN sell everything they used to make it work. Do NOT call it a kit if it isn't, that's false advertising. A kit is something you get from HKS vs our Australian idea of a kit which is any old turbo with something that might be the right oil and water lines, no dump, no inlet pipe, nothing. And then said work shops winge about customers being too fussy. CRAP, make something that works or advertise it as a partial kit or a kit that we think might work, oh, I know "buy our kit, we think it might work, if your lucky."

Honestly guys, just do it yourselves, yes it takes longer but it is done right and you know what your spending your money on.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...