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no, i more meant, what turbo would you run with an RB24? something rather obviously not standard? Factor in a trip to regency/EPA if you get pulled over(others, not you, I know yours isn;t a streeter anymore). A Stock looking RB26 with engineers cert won't get the same treatment, and if it does, N1's were a factory turbo, use an R34 motor and it would be legal would it not? It would also make the same if not more power than an RB24, and considering it would prob be worth sleeving the block, it won;t be a cheap build.

Cliffnotes:

Officer sees large turbo(high or lowmount) -> EPA

Standard engine bay-> no dramas.

they will be less inclined to look closely at the turbo in an RB20 than a RB26. i can tell u that a RB20 sitting in the engine bay will be a lot easier to put through regency than an RB26, fact.

btw yes i did bump this thread, but there is a small chance i will be getting my hands on this thing again so maybe not a bump for nothing.

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as they say... there's no replacement for displacement

Thats what all the people with RB25s/26s/28s/30s in rwd platforms keep telling me. Makes for a nicer street car no doubt...but put your foot down and all this torque that people pull their dicks over just fries tyres it seems. Fun but no good when you are trying to get out of a corner quick at the track. Thats why personally i have stuck with the RB20, well thats enough of a reason for me anyway. The perceived improvement in torque means gearing, tyre size and quality of alignment, shocks and suspension components all get called into question and the law of diminishing returns hits home HARD because it all costs tend of thousands to maybe go a tad quicker at the track....for the street, meh a Getz is more fun becas eyou can rev its guts out and not lose your licence :banana:

I said it before and will say it again....

1. People who put RB25s in R32s are the sort of guys who sleep with their girlfriend's ok looking friend because she is easy!

2. People who put RB30s into R32s are the sort of people who prefer rohypnol to romance.

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i spent the evening flicking through all the project R32 articles... they start at issue 44 and got through till about issue 70.

with the td06 and the stock rb20 bottom end, they made 239kw, with full boost at 4500 rpm.

with the td06 and RB24, they tuned it for response, keeping the same power, so it made 239kw but came on much earlier with the cams set up for low end.. it also had the ability to rev out to an 8500rpm limit, but the td06 was out of puff by about 6000rpm.

the turbo was changed for a kkr unit with instantly went to 250kw first run... they tuned it and made 256kw, but boost response was now back to the rb20 state.., coming on at 4500 instead of 3500 like the trust turbo, but thats due to the larger turbo.. if it was on an rb20, it wouldnt come on until 5000 or later..

Roy and I are both making 260-280rwkw on 1.2-1.4 bar with TD06 L2's, and I get full boost before 4,500, around 4,200 with a slight manifold leak at the time (that grew bigger).

And I don't run out of puff at limiter 7,600 rpm (but I have a different intake manifold)

I am thinking, unless you want well over 300rwkw (say 350+) don't bother. But by that power level RB25's make sense :banana:

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The perfect road legal RB20 would be rebuilt with just 81mm pistons, run a little more compression, say 8.8 or 9.0:1 and run the std plenum and exhaust manifold. Throw a GT-RS on it with a nice tune, or even better a 2835 Pro with internal gate and it would be a legal looking 250rwkws that would drive nice. A 2530kai could well be the better option for a punchier 225odd rwkws

If you can get the 26 crank and rods cheaply enough then go for it, only the pistons all of a sudden become more expensive as they are customs. I grabbed a set of Tomei RB24 pistons for an absolute steal as it seems nobody wants RB20 gear :banana: This bottom end with an 2835 would be a very nice, legal looking engine.

All those complaing about how the RB20 head flows, it is of course using smaller valves then an RB25 etc and ports are smaller. BUT, look at the SR20 which shares the 2L capacity. The RB20 has a smaller combustion chamber courtesy of its smaller bore, but as a ratio of inlet and exhaust valve to cc of cylinder it still has a better ratio of valve area to cylinder cc. So i would argue that an RB20 would live with a bump in displacement far easier then an SR20 going to SR22 etc.

From my limited personal experience with aftermarket cams in the RB20, they have plenty of cam in them std too. Look at the duration compared to the RB25 and RB26, albeit with less lift. If i try cams then for 2L i wont go over 256/8.5. If i ever need to rebuild my engine using the Tomei pistons and RB26 crank, rods etc i have then i may entertain the idea of going to 260/10.25mm cams because guess what...seems nobody wants the solid lifter gear and springs for an RB20/RB25DE/VG30 so they can be had for a steal as well and have them under my couch as well:)

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Agreed, If I had my time again, I would look around 230rwkw with plenty of response and a standard manifold. The L2 is a fun turbo but not for the average consumer. It is one hell of a ride :banana:

Why I will stick with it? I will never get back what I paid for the kit, which is far far less than what the RRP is.

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If i ever need to rebuild my engine using the Tomei pistons and RB26 crank, rods etc i have then i may entertain the idea of going to 260/10.25mm cams because guess what...seems nobody wants the solid lifter gear and springs for an RB20/RB25DE/VG30 so they can be had for a steal as well and have them under my couch as well:)

That's the cam setup I will be switching to after I have the head CNC'd to add 10cc and +1 valves. Either those or the 270/10.25 pro cams.

Edited by jdmser
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