Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

When i apply the brakes, my brakes start to squeek and its getting annoying, ive changed the pads. got new rotors about 4 months ago. tried "Squeek stopping spray" and nothing is working, i grinded down the edges of the pads and still nothing.. Im not sure what to do now? maybe take to a "pro" to look at it? =\

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302978-brakes-squeeking/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey,

When i apply the brakes, my brakes start to squeek and its getting annoying, ive changed the pads. got new rotors about 4 months ago. tried "Squeek stopping spray" and nothing is working, i grinded down the edges of the pads and still nothing.. Im not sure what to do now? maybe take to a "pro" to look at it? =\

Check the toe in and toe out alignment of the pads. Also ensure that the backing plates are still installed behind the pads.

You will want a very slight toe in on the leading edge of the pads to stop squeaking from memory.

Nigel.

Its a case of trial and error for Skyline brakes im afraid.

I couldnt tell you how many times i tried to get mine to stop squeaking, and failed. Even with stock pads.

Tried EVERYTHING and eventually, they squeaked again..

Skimmed rotors, shims Ferodos..

New Rotors, shims stock pads + brake squeak stop

New Rotors, no shims squeak stop... and so on and so forth.

Finally, what worked for me, was getting slotted rotors. Have had them on the track, and 100's of km of town driving and have not heard a peep from them since. This is with Ferodo Formula pads, and NO squeak shims.

I think the squeak was more to do with pad glazing in my case. And the slotted rotors are keeping the surface clean.

Well thats my theory anyway :)

Edited by gotRICE?
Hey,

When i apply the brakes, my brakes start to squeek and its getting annoying, ive changed the pads. got new rotors about 4 months ago. tried "Squeek stopping spray" and nothing is working, i grinded down the edges of the pads and still nothing.. Im not sure what to do now? maybe take to a "pro" to look at it? =\

Mine only squeek when it has been a cold day. Usually after about 5 minutes though they stop. I've tried hosing the brake dust off but this made them worse at the time. Now I just put up with it for 5 minutes and then it goes. I don't know what they theory is there, maybe something to do with disc expanding in heat whcih causes brakes to stop squeeking?

ethier that mate, or the pads are getting up to temp after 4 or so mins of driving,

My gtr's brakes squeeeeek there heads off, give it 10-15mins of hard track like driving, and bam there quite, than when i go back to crusing they cool down and off gose with the squeeeking again,

It depends alot on your pads

  • 3 months later...

Sorry to resurrect a semi-old thread but I've had my R33 for about 3 weeks now and have tried a bunch of things to stop the brakes squealing, it's quite loud and very annoying.

Mine has slotted rotors, which I've had machined, Bendix Ultimate pads in the front (new) and Ferodo Formula pads in the rear (also new), shims are also in there. My next plan is to use different pads and see if that changes it.

When I had the rotors machined and pads changed it was all good and quiet for a few days, now it's just as bad as it was before.

Any new ideas?

Certainly did. I paid particular attention to making sure i did that. It's so annoying, I love the skyline and should have bought one much earlier but then there's this terrible noise every time I brake, quite disappointing.

ferodo formulas squeak like a bitch on the back. I had them on front and rear and i swapped the rears out for another brand (TRX?) which were slightly better but still squeal. I'd try a softer pad on the back, they are not as critical as the fronts. I'm trying QFM HPX's next front and back (their street pad).

yep GSL Rallysports do, and I put some on mine, no squeaking apart from a tiiiny bit on very hard braking. Given that I put on slotted rotors with only a little bit of use, and didn't bother machining the rears I'm stoked. I didn't have squealing on the OEM pads before though either.

QFM are a really good pad for the money IMO, but that's going off on another tangent..

Interesting reading these postings. Most people with brake noise seem to have done the right thing and machined discs and fitted their new pads with the factory anti squeal plates but the brakes still give them problems. The problem has to be pads that are not appropriate for the use of the car . Using pads over 400c on the street is wasting you money and wearing out your discs. Using pads with high temps in normal driving conditions which the majority of people do actually makes the brakes perform less efficiently than a standard pad and yes you get noise. High temp pads should only be used in circuit conditions. The only exception to this is hillclimbing where you use the softest pad available.

Maybe you have misaligned caliper pistons something caused by the wrong technique when resetting.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...