Jump to content
SAU Community

Brakes Squeeking

Curtis.Cow
 Share

Recommended Posts

Cassbo Grand Master

Cassbo

Posted
Posted
Squeaky brakes make your car sound more like a track weapon.

The bishes will love it, embrace the squeal.

Quoted for truth :)

I use Project Mu HC+ pads, and in my experience they don't go quiet until I give them a good pounding at a track day :D

Just need to keep an eye on them as they don't have wear indicators :(

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

lexasty Apprentice

lexasty

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys

If it makes you feel any better I have a VE HSV R8 with DBA5000 Series and 2500 Ferodo Performance pads.

Squeeking...........Drives me nuts!!!!!! The replacement pads and rotors are heaps better then the factory crap but oh so loud. My wife drives the car most days, but when I get in it on weekends it does my head in.

I'm looking at buying an R33 for weekends so I thought I would see if I have the same trouble.

Cheers

Josh

BI6TIM Enthusiast

BI6TIM

Posted
Posted

I guess this thread somewhat answers your question lexasty.

I gave the brakes a hard time the other day and they seemed to be quite for a while after that. The more I drive it sedately and brake lightly the noise comes back and gets worse.

So I gather the temp rating of the pads I have is too high for the main usage of them. Hopefully I'll have quite brakes when I get a pad more suited to street driving with lower temp rating.

lookingforboost Community Regular

lookingforboost

Posted
Posted

mine make a high pitched squeeking only on the lightest touch on the pedal then nothing and when cold they are so loud!

i have put on DBA 4000 wiper slot rotors and bendix ultimate pads i am going to put some stuff behind the pads cant remember what its called but someone told me it will fix the noise when driving when cold i know that it will always make noise

gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
Posted
I guess this thread somewhat answers your question lexasty.

I gave the brakes a hard time the other day and they seemed to be quite for a while after that. The more I drive it sedately and brake lightly the noise comes back and gets worse.

So I gather the temp rating of the pads I have is too high for the main usage of them. Hopefully I'll have quite brakes when I get a pad more suited to street driving with lower temp rating.

Its because you glaze the pads. Theyre designed to be alot hotter, so if you keep using them when they dont get hot the glaze over causing the squealing. Rub them on a bit of sand paper and put them back in. They'l be quiet again for about 30 mins :)

BI6TIM Enthusiast

BI6TIM

Posted
Posted
Its because you glaze the pads. Theyre designed to be alot hotter, so if you keep using them when they dont get hot the glaze over causing the squealing. Rub them on a bit of sand paper and put them back in. They'l be quiet again for about 30 mins :(
Right you are!

I did have the pads out as I knew that would be the cause of the noise, I also scuffed the pads up and it did fix it for about a day or two.

The reason I posted here with my question is I wanted to know if there was something I was missing with the skyline as to why the noise came back. The answer being pads that are aimed at race use not street use.

I've only heard good things about the QFM pads so I think I'm going to go with them.

J34 Proficient

J34

Posted
Posted

I've got QFM pads at the moment and they squeal so load it hurts my ears.

I think cleaning the shims and applying some copper grease is the go. Is there a specific way the shims should be put back together? There's a small clip tab thing that goes in the corner, does it matter what side?

Also whats the best way for resetting/ pushing the caliper pistons in?

gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
Posted
Also whats the best way for resetting/ pushing the caliper pistons in?

I actually never worked out whether there was a 4piston caliper pusher :s

I did it a naughty way :bunny:, one piston at a time.

Start with one, (cap off master cylinder), push it in however you figure out how to, put the pad in horizontal. Then press the bottom one in and swing the pad back down vertcal.

Repeat for the other side.

I found that was the only way i could do it. As every time you squeeze one piston in, is fires the other three straight back out :wub:

Anyone know of a 4piston pusher? Cheap? :( I had a single pusher for my Hondas... worked a charm and was only $15.

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted
Hi Guys

If it makes you feel any better I have a VE HSV R8 with DBA5000 Series and 2500 Ferodo Performance pads.

Squeeking...........Drives me nuts!!!!!! The replacement pads and rotors are heaps better then the factory crap but oh so loud. My wife drives the car most days, but when I get in it on weekends it does my head in.

I'm looking at buying an R33 for weekends so I thought I would see if I have the same trouble.

Cheers

Josh

If your 2500's are squeeling the solution is simple. Get some temperature into them. Seriously - give the brakes a pasting for a few minutes and they will quieten down for a good period after that. When it happens again a few weeks later repeat the exercise.

andymoocow Grand Master

andymoocow

Posted
Posted
I've got QFM pads at the moment and they squeal so load it hurts my ears.

I think cleaning the shims and applying some copper grease is the go. Is there a specific way the shims should be put back together? There's a small clip tab thing that goes in the corner, does it matter what side?

Also whats the best way for resetting/ pushing the caliper pistons in?

I have QFM pads front and rear too. Front and rear used to squeal terriby. Gave them a very good pounding on the freeway late at night, about 5 stops. After that the fronts were fine but rears still squealed, i couldnt get enough heat into the rears to burn all the crap off the pads/ So taken out the rear pad and put stock ones in, easy fix, now its quiet all round. Then next track day i'll put the QFMs back in so they get a good workout and see how they go after that. Hope that helps.

gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
Posted
If your 2500's are squeeling the solution is simple. Get some temperature into them. Seriously - give the brakes a pasting for a few minutes and they will quieten down for a good period after that. When it happens again a few weeks later repeat the exercise.

Agree with this!

Also the thing is, most people put new pads in on the rotors they currently have. The rotors that are current have been bed in with different pads. So the best idea is to skim the rotos BEFORE putting the new pads in. Or, new rotors.

Then bed them in like a bastard.

When i was trying to stop mine, i tried every method i could think of, and still it came back.

Put new slotted rotors on (that also help with pad glazing), scuffed the pads, and went out and bed them in by giving them a freeway beating. 5 or so 100-50s calmly to warm them up, then the same, but aggressive 120-30 (about) to get them really hot. Did it a further 3 times, and the smoke was pouring off them. Parked up and let them cool off completely.

Havnt heard a peep from them since. (6-8 months)

lookingforboost Community Regular

lookingforboost

Posted
Posted
Agree with this!

Also the thing is, most people put new pads in on the rotors they currently have. The rotors that are current have been bed in with different pads. So the best idea is to skim the rotos BEFORE putting the new pads in. Or, new rotors.

Then bed them in like a bastard.

When i was trying to stop mine, i tried every method i could think of, and still it came back.

Put new slotted rotors on (that also help with pad glazing), scuffed the pads, and went out and bed them in by giving them a freeway beating. 5 or so 100-50s calmly to warm them up, then the same, but aggressive 120-30 (about) to get them really hot. Did it a further 3 times, and the smoke was pouring off them. Parked up and let them cool off completely.

Havnt heard a peep from them since. (6-8 months)

wow, i will give this a go with mine, i have noticed over the last few thousand kms that it is starting to quiet down a fair bit but still got the low speed noise.

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted
wow, i will give this a go with mine, i have noticed over the last few thousand kms that it is starting to quiet down a fair bit but still got the low speed noise.

You should have got some bedding in instructions with the pads.

Basically this involves running them up to a temperature until you can smell them by doing repeated 120-80 (Or whatever you feel comfortable with) stops.

Once the pads have been bedded in properly they should be pretty quiet as a rule and, for that matter, work properly.

Dani Boi Grand Master

Dani Boi

Posted
Posted
Also whats the best way for resetting/ pushing the caliper pistons in?

You can buy a tool from your local auto store, I think they are called brake spreaders. Will set you back about $15-$20. I wouldn't bother with it though, I had trouble finding a leverage point for it to push the pistons back in and ended up using my fingers (ouch).

The QFM hpx brake pads dont squeel. Dont know why you guys are getting squeeling from them, you've probably got track ones on :blink:

lexasty Apprentice

lexasty

Posted
Posted
If your 2500's are squeeling the solution is simple. Get some temperature into them. Seriously - give the brakes a pasting for a few minutes and they will quieten down for a good period after that. When it happens again a few weeks later repeat the exercise.

Thanks for the info guys. Might take it for a spin tomorrow and give the brakes hell.

Anthony from Dahtone installed the pads and rotors and I think he had fun when he bedded them in.

Marcus89 Proficient

Marcus89

Posted
Posted
So if i want to stop, i hit the accelerator? f**k me iv been doing it all wrong!

Yea i think it's a pretty new technique you have to plant the accelerator do a 180 and then use your acceleration to slow yourself down. Not very effective, fuel efficient or safe but yea everyone does it cause it's mr cool :)

lookingforboost Community Regular

lookingforboost

Posted
Posted
You should have got some bedding in instructions with the pads.

Basically this involves running them up to a temperature until you can smell them by doing repeated 120-80 (Or whatever you feel comfortable with) stops.

Once the pads have been bedded in properly they should be pretty quiet as a rule and, for that matter, work properly.

I didnt get any :) but i knew i had to bed them in so i did 50 to 0 fairly fast about 10 times then went to 80-0 about 5 times and they were great and i could smell them the noise only started the next day :) but i just thought it might be the rotors as they were new.

it stops very well and i am pretty happy with them when i get the new rear rotors and pads i'll get the brakes bleed with new fluid and give them a hard time see if that makes then a bit quieter :blink:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • GTSBoy
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
×
×
  • Create New...